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i have ordered 2 different bellcrank repair kits for two suppliers.they came and they atre from the same indian manufacture with the crappy bearings.Is there a supplier that i can find one good US made in specs kits???
Thanks again
George

Midwest Military.

I called and complained about these. Crown and Omix ada are the only two manufacturers according to John. I had two brand new crown kits and they are too loose on their specs. The bellcrank end lifts and drops so much I had front end shimmy due to the kit. I had clearance between the pin and bushing, and then bushing and needle bearings to the tune of .013. Brand new!!!!!!! I solved the problem by having a new bushing made at the local machine shop. The bushing is drilled and chamfered for grease between the pin and bellcrank. This bushing just fits between the two surfaces and rotates on both. I did have to rheem some highspots worn on the bellcrank. No more slop, no more shimmy and feels good. Those small needle bearing only contact about a 1/4 inch top and bottom. With .013 play, they are a failure for me. No warrenty or help with this problem either. Good luck. The new bushing contacts the total height of the bellcrank inner bore. They need better machining and larger needle bearings in my opinion. The machine shop owner recommended the bushing material which he uses in other applications to great success. John

A partial solution is to insist on original Torrington B-188 bearings. I too have seen bellcrank kits with very shoddy caged bearings: a part easily made in a cheap fashion.... Brian

Hello John,
Did you get a new pin in the kit or use the original?
Was it worn? A badly worn pin would also cause what you describe.

Just asking for others to check theirs when rebuilding. I know
your work so know you have done so.

My replacement pin would not fit and I had to use the takeoff.

Hello Brian! I re-used the new crown pin, nut, washer and pinch bolt that came in the kit. I measured the new pin, measured the height of the bushing, and measured the ID of the bellcrank and told the machine shop fellow to give me .001 on both the inside and outside of those two measurements. I deleted the two seals because I wanted full length, top to bottom. I then drilled my own lube holes and chamfered them to swedge in the grease as it turns. I had to slightly rheem the bellcrank where it had a little high spot. Works fantastic now. The symptoms were: a little loose as I assembled the brand new kit in the bellcrank. I took my '51 M38 to the FCT in Colorado and drove it about 350 miles. The farther I went, the worse the looseness got and by the last day was getting front end shimmy. I could hold the steering wheel firm and watch the front wheels moving side to side on a back road while going straight. Upon investigating, I was amazed at how far the bellcrank shifted up and down. All else checked out good since the rebuild. When I tore it apart, the bushing had obvious wear in tracks that the needles contacted. Pretty simple fix, and I doubt I'll ever go back in. I looked at putting 3 needle bearings in the unit instead of two, but it obstructed the grease hole. It has a nice solid feel in the wheel now and doesn't bind either. I suppose a person could make a new bushing to fit the needle bearings that would tighten it up, but the contact surface would still be pretty wimpy. That was my first idea, but then decided to go robust! LOL, John

so,there no kit available in the specs.exept making one in a machine shop. too bad for a critical part like this

I heard that WCFR4 Matt Fox had one original, for 90 bucks. I decided to spend my bucks at the machine shop and got 3 bushings made for that. If you have a buddy with a lathe, you can make your own. John