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How is the bushing suppose to be installed into the bell crank. Should it be press fit or just slide in when installed on the pivot bolt? The reason I ask is because when I install the new repair kit (new bearings, pivot bolt, washers, and bushing) the bell crank slides up and down on the bushing when everything is torqued down. I looked at the numerous other threads regarding this same issue and a common theme is that the bushing was not machined correctly. Specifically one just over a week ago titled "bell crank repair kit". So I checked the fit of the new bushing within the bell crank with new bearings installed. The fit is tighter then .006". My feeler gauge only goes down to that. Should I check lower then that? My assumption here is that the bushings OD is not wide enough which allows the bellcrank to slide on the bushing.

TJ,
Compare your takeoff pivot bolt with the replacement.

There are some threads here where there are at least two and
maybe three pivot bolt configs. The usual problem being
mismatched is they allow the bell crank to do just as you
have seen.

You may have to use your takeoff pivot bolt as I did.

Brian,

I forgot to mention that I tried the bell crank with the old pivot bolt and old bushing with the same result. I tried the old pivot bolt with the new bushing with the same result and I also tried the new pivot bolt with the old bushing with the same result. I kind of expected the same result with the old bushing but wanted to try anyway. The old pivot bolt is shorter then the new pivot bolt but either way when torqued up the bushing is up against the collar that sticks down below the pinch bolt bracket on the frame. From there the bell crank can slide up and down on the bushing.

TJ

TJ,
Take a look at this post as well as Chris' referenced in the
post. You need the cross bolt installed as it will set the pin height.
I still had an issue and installed a washer to make up the
space.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... bell+crank

Did some more work on the bellcrank and figured out the up and down play. I had installed the bearing and seal to far down into the bellcrank. The extra space allowed the movement. But when I put it all together with the new pivot bolt and bushing I still had side to side play. This play I think now is inline with the other threads with respect to the new kits tolerances. So I put the original pivot bolt back in with the original bushing and I very little play. I think what I do have left is just the fact that the original bushing is worn. I will have to come up with a plan now for a new bushing.

You could try some shim stock but .006 /2 is pretty thin stuff.

Did you try the new bushing with the old pin?

Otherwise, yes, you can have a new bushing made if you
have a bud with a lathe.

Or you can just drop the parts at the machine shop and pick them up when they are done.