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NOS Head Gasket Install
Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 3:54 pm
by southpw
Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 3:59 pm
by southpw
Also, should steel enforcement between cylinders 1-2 and 3-4 have solid steel to the block or to the head? You can see a picture in above post where steel does not connect and the other side it does.

Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:25 pm
by southpw
All my questions are answered in TM9-1804A on page 94-95. No mention of sealant so I will install dry. Hoping this gasket will last a long time.
Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 9:55 pm
by wesk
Good assumption. Unless the gasket directions specify the use of a sealant then don't use a sealant.
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 4:12 am
by oilleaker1
Never seen one like yours. I hate the steel , one sided felpros. The fiber ones have worked fine for me, but they had a complete metal surround on the inner cylinder areas. I've also had good luck with the new copper gaskets. If they blow/leak, it's usually between cylinders. Next one I install will be copper. Just my opinion. John
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 2:00 pm
by wesk
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 5:05 pm
by southpw
The TM states to install with logo facing up which would have crimped side of steel facing up. But your posted service bulletin states crimped side facing down. I looked up Detroit gasket and mfg company but found nothing. Since i have no manufacturers instructions, i will install as per the service bulletin. If it wasnt for that, i would have installed crimped side up.
Fingers crossed. I plan on painting before reassembly so may make another trip out to Brian Asbury as i know he has a few different head gaskets on hand.
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 5:27 pm
by oilleaker1
I see it said to retorque after the engine reached operating temperature.

There has been much discussion on letting it cool down after reaching this temp before retorqueing. I find this comforting because I retorque while it's hot. I do it again after driving it a week or so. While it's hot! Works well for me. John
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 6:47 pm
by southpw
Thanks for that first hand experience. I will do the same.
Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:39 pm
by wesk
Did you note the date of the SB? Did you note that it applies to the F-134?
I noticed your head gasket was part of Engine overhaul gasket set A-1537 which is for the WWII jeeps. This set included Head Gasket WO# A-8558.
The gasket set for the M38 is WO# 648054, ORD# 7372555 or FSN 2805-737-2555. The head gasket in this set is WO# 638540
I have seen a factory letter warning about early vs late head gaskets for the L-134. Can't seem to locate a copy now.
Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 3:29 pm
by 45auto
Following up with what Wes has said--there are different Head Gasket part numbers for the MB-GPW and Early CJ2A engines or Smooth Head and later Ribbed Heads. Attached are the part numbers I have on early vs late head gaskets. Looks to me, you need to source a late L-Head head gasket.
All the neat columns that tells what fits what does not show up here. If Wes can post a chart, I can send him a clipping of the file in Excel format.
Part Group Part Type Part Description MB 2A 3A 35 3B J5 38 A1 Manufacture Part Number Remarks About The Part
MB-GPW Early CJ2A Fel-Pro 7267 B For the Smooth Cylinder Head
Late CJ2A--CJ3A--M38 Fel-Pro 7285 B Ribbed Cylinder Head--Recommended for Heavy Cylinder Over-Bores .060--.080 etc.
MB-GPW--Early CJ2A McCord 6080 For the Smooth Cylinder---Medal on Both Sides
Late CJ2A--CJ3A--M38 Victor 1023 K Has Water Jacket Slots on Right Side of Engine
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 7:15 am
by wesk
Harold,
My email addy is at the bottom of my posts. Just email the file to me and I'll get it up on our downloads page.
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:50 pm
by southpw
Thanks Harold and Wes. I am going to try and source out another gasket. I would feel more confident with a gasket that has a full metal surround around the cylinder.
Brad
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:17 pm
by wesk