Starter parts
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 2:59 pm
Ps1360 Prestolite starter.
Where can I get parts like the gears?
Thanks!
Where can I get parts like the gears?
Thanks!
Page 1 of 2
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 10:21 pm
What is the model number. That Ps1360 is the casting number of the nose case!
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 6:50 am
Hi Wes,
No plate, no numbers stamped into the end piece. 12 volt round nose starter
with 9 teeth, solenoid bolted to the top of the case.
It was in my M38 when bought. Starts well. When I pulled it to get at the clutch I found the teeth trashed. The 129 tooth flywheel other than needing a skim looks fine (teeth look good).
No plate, no numbers stamped into the end piece. 12 volt round nose starter
with 9 teeth, solenoid bolted to the top of the case.
It was in my M38 when bought. Starts well. When I pulled it to get at the clutch I found the teeth trashed. The 129 tooth flywheel other than needing a skim looks fine (teeth look good).
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:23 am
The teeth are part of the Bendix drive. remove the drive and check the part number on it.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 8:21 am
Thank you Sir. Easier than tearing down the T90.
That's another story. Has to do with the grey zombie blood
I drained out.
That's another story. Has to do with the grey zombie blood
I drained out.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:41 am
Got the Bendix out. Surprisingly, the windings look almost new. Lots of brush material. Again, almost new. Surface rust on the armature and the magnets.
I did not see a gasket on either end. If they drove it in water it probably got in.
The Bendix also looks new, except for the ground up gears.
The only thing stamped on it is
Rebuilt
Arrow
Nothing else. Any way to ID this thing?
I did not see a gasket on either end. If they drove it in water it probably got in.
The Bendix also looks new, except for the ground up gears.
The only thing stamped on it is
Rebuilt
Arrow
Nothing else. Any way to ID this thing?
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:15 pm
For what it's worth looking at Walck's website, my starter looks just
like the MDU-7004.
like the MDU-7004.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:23 pm
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:47 pm
Hi Brad,
Looks just like it.
Wonder if I should try and find a US brand before purchasing an offshore
brand?
Looks just like it.
Wonder if I should try and find a US brand before purchasing an offshore
brand?
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 2:53 pm
Brian,
There is bound to be someone near Llano that still rebuilds starters, generators etc. I know there is one in Bryan that is good. Even if you have to go to San Angelo, Austin, or Marble Falls. Or a parts house that all the farmers use, not the local Auto Zone. A parts house should be able to look it up and get you a good replacement bendix without much problem. If the teeth on the starter are that bad what does your ring gear look like. Have you looked at the picture that Wes has in his photos that matches ring gear and starter teeth. Did the PO have the proper starter in it?
There is bound to be someone near Llano that still rebuilds starters, generators etc. I know there is one in Bryan that is good. Even if you have to go to San Angelo, Austin, or Marble Falls. Or a parts house that all the farmers use, not the local Auto Zone. A parts house should be able to look it up and get you a good replacement bendix without much problem. If the teeth on the starter are that bad what does your ring gear look like. Have you looked at the picture that Wes has in his photos that matches ring gear and starter teeth. Did the PO have the proper starter in it?
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:01 pm
Hi Ralph,
My early M38 has a replacement late block, sealed bell housing, and the closed nose 12 volt starter. Ring gear has 129 teeth.
I may need the bushings, but other than the Bendix teeth, and a little grime
the rest of the starter looks pretty good. Nice layer of varnish or whatever they used between the armature windings and on the poles. Lots of brush material left. If I can find a drive I'm inclined to put it in and call it good. It turned over and started the jeep easily before I pulled it.
Is it as simple as driving out that roll pin or will I need to pull it of with a puller? As I told my brother in law in Atlanta I wish we were closer. I bet you have a press in your shop. My T90 needs rebuilding.
Take care,
My early M38 has a replacement late block, sealed bell housing, and the closed nose 12 volt starter. Ring gear has 129 teeth.
I may need the bushings, but other than the Bendix teeth, and a little grime
the rest of the starter looks pretty good. Nice layer of varnish or whatever they used between the armature windings and on the poles. Lots of brush material left. If I can find a drive I'm inclined to put it in and call it good. It turned over and started the jeep easily before I pulled it.
Is it as simple as driving out that roll pin or will I need to pull it of with a puller? As I told my brother in law in Atlanta I wish we were closer. I bet you have a press in your shop. My T90 needs rebuilding.
Take care,
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:41 pm
Brian you are not looking hard enough again!
1-Wes album http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
2-Wes's SM1046 service manual http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
3-Wes's SM1046 Electrical chapter H http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
1-Wes album http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
2-Wes's SM1046 service manual http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
3-Wes's SM1046 Electrical chapter H http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:05 pm
You caught me. I looked at a few links found with the search
engine but they led me to only the photos of the starter and lists
of numbers. That roll pin was all that was holding it on.
I need to look at the manual for the clearances and also get myself an internal
caliper. I've got a decent Starrett and an off brand dial caliper,
but don't think the ID function on a dial caliper is good enough
for checking bushing id.
I appreciate all the help. I did find a few teeth on the flywheel
that need touching up with a file. I need to dress the face anyway
and I can replace the pilot bushing and get a look at the back of the
block.
Thanks again.
engine but they led me to only the photos of the starter and lists
of numbers. That roll pin was all that was holding it on.
I need to look at the manual for the clearances and also get myself an internal
caliper. I've got a decent Starrett and an off brand dial caliper,
but don't think the ID function on a dial caliper is good enough
for checking bushing id.
I appreciate all the help. I did find a few teeth on the flywheel
that need touching up with a file. I need to dress the face anyway
and I can replace the pilot bushing and get a look at the back of the
block.
Thanks again.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:10 pm
Wes,
One more question. The page shown says to use carbon tet to clean the armature. Geez. Is there anything else you can use?
That's nasty stuff.
One more question. The page shown says to use carbon tet to clean the armature. Geez. Is there anything else you can use?
That's nasty stuff.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:32 pm
The majority of new ECO friendly cleaners and solvents are junk. Just man-up and put your rubber gloves and eye protection on.
On another note many folks who just can't stand "Not mix & matching" parts will use a different Bendix tooth count on a starter from original to match their flywheel. Often this happens before a guy buys it used and when he installs it on his jeep he finds out the hard way the tooth count is incorrect. The 129 tooth flywheel uses a 9 tooth pinion gear.
On another note many folks who just can't stand "Not mix & matching" parts will use a different Bendix tooth count on a starter from original to match their flywheel. Often this happens before a guy buys it used and when he installs it on his jeep he finds out the hard way the tooth count is incorrect. The 129 tooth flywheel uses a 9 tooth pinion gear.