willysmjeeps.com

Replaced all lines and master cylinder, back brakes bled successfully. Front won't bleed, removed bleed screws completely and no fluid. Loosened steel lines entering brake drum and I get fluid. Bad wheel cylinders on both fronts?
Stumped and trying to avoid taking the wheels apart but.......
Note that three of the four bleed screws needed to be cleaned out - completely plugged - I assume this is common on these old willys?

If I had found any bleeder port screws plugged I would have replaced the wheel cylinders.When it comes to brakes I don't take any chances.

Replace the cylinders, most likely they have rusted inside... fronts are the main stopping power, you can get them at most auto parts stores locally for about $15 each... well worth the funds... my opinion...

ok, been convinced to not risk this old man's death in a Jeep without any brakes, will replace wheel cylinders. thanks guys

If you have good mechanical skills. A good tool bench & box. Then honing and returning to service otherwise serviceable wheel cylinders is always an option. As a rule if I have serious corrosion pitting that requires a lot of material removal I simply replace the wheel cylinders. Of course the only way to determine the condition of the cylinders is to open up the brakes and remove the guts from the cylinders and inspect.

The brakes on these are so easy to do and the prices so low for parts, just do the entire jeep, all wheel cylinders, master cylinder shoes etc. They actually stop fairly well when everything is as it should be.

They actually stop fairly well when everything is as it should be.

This is usually true. But the real culprit is the worn out oversized drums. Folks keep getting them cleaned up by turning them on a drum lathe without regard to the maximum cut limit. Then when you make the drum ID too large the shoes barely contact the drum hard enough to be called effective braking. Yes you can shim the shoes to a certain point but more often the real solution is a new drum.