Electronic Ignition convertion

[pacho]

Hi guys,
I would like to know diferent experiences about change electronic ignition conversion in my m38a1, actually is 24 V.

Thanks in advance for comments
Pacho

[4x4M38]

Hello Pacho,
There is electronic ignition and there is pointless ignition.

I believe you are talking about pointless ignition.

Electronic ignition has a computer at its core which drives
all of the functions.

Pointless ignition simply replaced the mechanical points
in the distributor with a sensor that determines firing.

Use the search function above and seatch for pointless ignition
and you will find what you are looking for.

Take care,

[wesk]

As mentioned there are no electronic ignition systems available for the Willys L134 and F134 engines. The only available modernization products are two surplus pointless ignition systems and one aftermarket pointless system. These do nothing for overall control of the engine that an electronic system would do for modern engines. They simply replace your mechanical ignition contacts with a hall effect sensor that triggers the spark electrically. They all three retain the original coil. The only realized performance change is the increased mileage between any need for timing adjustments. More simply stated if you find 2,000 to 3,000 mile point changes or re-adjustments inconvenient you can upgrade to one of these three pointless systems to increase the mileage interval that any service would normally be required.

The three choices are:

a - the two surplus systems were only manufactured for the M151 series distributor, which rotates the opposite driection of the Willys distributors, but are easily adaptable to the Willys 24 V distributors.



1 - the early Prestolite system is my favorite choice but is also difficult to find today.



2 - The late M151 system by Swiss Controls which uses an odd rotor that must be modified accurately to function.



B - The Pertronix option was available in 6,12, & 24 volt kits.
http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/p ... ix2018.pdf

3 - Pertronix Kit MV-141A 24V
This MV-141AN12 must be used for the 24V install.
http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instructi ... 41AN12.pdf


Try to use all our resources here on this web sites when you research any issues.

An example is my photo album with a thousand technical photos that answer 90% of any questions you may have.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

and our Downloads Page:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... =Downloads

[pacho]

Wesk
Great information thanks.
All i need is in your post.

thanks again and regards

Pacho

[c90001]

Since I burn the contacts too fast, I have also installed the electronic version of the m151A2. Only I'm not sure if I still need the big capacitor. That was only for the break-off sparks and that should not exist then, right?

[wesk]

The military 24 V distributors used two capacitors. The one on the point plate was for the points to reduce flashover when they opened. That one is eliminated by the pointless kit. The other one inside the power cable attachment is a radio noise filter. It is not really necessary and can be eliminated but you must carefully fabricate a replacement contact lead for the 24 V in cable.

[pacho]

Hi,
I am thinking to install the Pertronix kit. In my understanding i need a coil wjth resistor, is correct? and what about wires?

Thanks
Pacho

[wesk]

The Pertronics MV-141 kit is for use with the stock military distributors and their stock 24V coils.

Military Vehicles:
All 4 M38, M151 and M422 Autolite IAU Series Notes: 66, 67, 79 MV-141A
All 6 M37, M43, M715 Autolite IAU Series Notes: 66, 67, 79 MV-161A
Notes:
66 24-volt system
67 Mil-Spec Waterproof Ignition
79 Not for use with solid core spark plug wires

The problem with Pertronics is the only set of Instructions they list on their Tech Data page is for the 12V MV-141AN12 kit.

I would approach Pertronics for technical guidance on use of any resistors.

Another note, for those of you that have failed to insure the military ignition switch was turned off when engine was not running and burned up your points, condenser and coil this can still happen with any of the electronics systems that are left powered with the hall effect relay closed. The best insurance for this is the conversion to a civvy style ignition switch with a key.