Running very rich

MitchelSimpson · Post by **MitchelSimpson** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 6:36 pm

Okay here we go. I bought a 1960 m38a1 and it was missing the correct spark plug wires so I replaced them and simultantiously rebuilt the distributer and replaced the coil with one from kaiser. I took my carb apart and while I was waiting for the rebuild kit my girlfriends dad knocked the carb off the fender and it bent the brass tube coming off the bottom of the carb. I had to file the bent part off. For the life of me I can't get it to run correctly without missing and making my eyes burn. Its got an electric fuel pump but I put a variable fuel regulator on it. Is this brass tube my problem and is it replaceable? Thanks in advance

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:09 pm

Since you are new to the group I will first suggest you obtain the manuals for your jeep. They can be purchased in paperback from Portrayal press. If you wish we have all of them loaded here on our web site in PDF format. These are free. The link is at the top of this discussion "DOWNLOADS".
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... =Downloads

Do not overlook my photo albums. They are the second album on "Members Albums" page. There are hundreds of high resolution detailed technical photos there to help you out. In this case you want to visit my "M38A1 Fuel System " album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

The issues you are having are well covered in these manuals. Keep in mind the YS637 used on the M38 is similar to the YS950 used on the M38A1 & M170. But the Army carb manual does not address the YS950. The principles are the same but you will need to use the attached spec sheet for the YS950 that I attached to the manual excerpts for the YS950 and the parts list & illustrations found in the M38A1's ORD 9. I sent you an email earlier with your membership info, a manual list and a survey form. Use that manual list to secure a good set of manuals.

If this is the tube you filed the bottom off you will need to find a replacement!

MitchelSimpson · Post by **MitchelSimpson** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:20 pm

Thank you! I've got a lot of reading to do. And I need to find one of those tubes

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:43 pm

Not sure weather you filed off the tip of one or both but the tube I pointed out has a pin shaft in it. YY and ZZ above.

YY = Tube, lo spd jet - ORD# 7372536, Carter# 11A-142, WO# 116874, FSN 2910-737-2536, NSN 2910-00-737-2536

ZZ = Tube, Assy, bleeder w/plug - ORD# 7372537, Carter# 145-70S, WO# 116900, FSN 2910-737-2537, NSN 2910-00-737-2537

I ran these numbers with no luck on google.

Here are a few places to contact:
http://oldjeepcarbs.com/
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/YS_c_209.html
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/PartsCarter.htm

MitchelSimpson · Post by **MitchelSimpson** » Tue Jul 03, 2018 9:13 am

I found a complete carb on eBay for 200 y'all think I should just bite the bullet

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jul 03, 2018 9:27 am

Depends on your schedule and your mechanical skills.

If you are not in a hurry they often pop up at car shows and flea markets in the $20 to $50 range.

We do not know your mechanical skill level so it's hard to offer accurate advice.

An Ebay carb could be a:

1-used and working when removed

2-used and not working when removed.

3-rebuildable core

4-scrap core

5-new in the box

6-new old stock. (no idea how long it sat on the shelf. Diaphragms probably not compatible with ethanol fuels)

7-fresh rebuild without paperwork or warranty

8-professional rebuild with proper invoice & warranty.

For $200 it should be in category 1, 6, or 7.

MitchelSimpson · Post by **MitchelSimpson** » Tue Jul 03, 2018 9:30 am

It looks to be in used but decent shape. All I would need is the top portion. I offered him 100 we will see what he says. Thanks!

MitchelSimpson · Post by **MitchelSimpson** » Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:41 am

Got it for 125. I also ordered a new coil because my new "chrome" one didn't ohm that great when I first got it. Thanks guys I'll update it when I get the parts

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:52 am

When you get the new coil post your ohm readings for both coils. I'd like to see what a brand new coil ohms out compared to a suspect coil. The only published test for determining acceptable coil resistance was the amp draw check in the manuals and the Prestolite Spec sheets..