wiring woes

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 7:45 pm

well obviously I'm back again. I've been working on the wiring on my 52 M38 and have finally got the whole front of the jeep connected. But, (doesn't there always seem to be a but in the mix?)

1st question. should headlights work even with the master off ?

I've run a power supply (12V 40 amp) to the Right side starter where tha Battery lead connects. Here's the functionalit of the lights and switch:

In STOP LIGHT I get panel lights and power to the left rear.

In SERVICE DRIVE Headlights work (high & low) hig beam indicator works, power to the right rear, BUT PANEL LIGHTS go Out.
In BLACK OUT MARK I get front and rear B.O. Markers work and I get Panel lights

In BLACK OUT DRIVE all four markers work and the fender B.O. Drive light works and I still get panel lights.
In SERVICE DRIVE with Auxillary lever in park I do get panel lights and power to the left rear.

Does anybody have an idea where I might have messed up???
I am working with a M38 Harness but the previous owner had cut off the master for a keyed ignition and had wired in a simple toggle for headlights only. evrything else so far has just been read the wire markers and plug in

Now according to the chart that I got from Wes I should only have panel lights in SERVICE DRIVE and and Service Drive PARK.

Its and AHRGHHH moment for me. I do not profess to be and eletrician or a mechanic. I will appreciate any and all help. I am finally getting close to trying to start this old veteran and I have been working on this M38 since 2011. with a total frame off. Ive been keeping a journal with pictures and maybe somehow I will post it here some day.....
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mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 8:16 pm

Haha! They always come back.

This can be a real fun project! [/sarcasm]

I take it you are using the three lever light switch. And by "master" you mean the ignition switch, then:

We need more information. New wring harness?what do you mean by you have been working on the wiring? To me that means building new harnesses from scratch but everyone has their individual definition.

So more info please.

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 8:22 pm

I just went through this a couple of weeks ago.Check this one out and see if any of it applies to your situation.
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... ic&t=11883

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 10:07 pm

1st question. should headlights work even with the master off ?

Yes. Do you not recall our 10, 11 & 15 wiring connection discussions last week? 10 from the starter's battery post feeds 15 to the light switch before 10 feeds the master/ignition switch thus the light switch is hot all the time.

Now according to the chart that I got from Wes I should only have panel lights in SERVICE DRIVE and and Service Drive PARK.

Better look closer at that chart. In service drive you get panel lights, headlights and the left rear service stop light (red) & service tail light (red). There are no service drive parking lights up front.

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Sat Jul 28, 2018 6:41 pm

s far as reading the chart, I Did. BUT, in service drive the panel lights go out. as I stated in the previous msg. and I have panel lights in Black out drive and Black out park. I also have panel lights (as the last figure in the chart) in Service Drive with the Aux. lever in the Park position.
SO the problem is still the same I have panel lights where I should not have panel lights (B.O.Drive & B.O. Mark) and I do not have panel lights in Service Drive. The only one that is 100% is the bottom right of the chart .

Now as far as more info (mdainsd) I am working with the M38 wiring harness. BUT, there's that word again, it has been bastardized if a few locations. The original 3 lever switch was gone and the previous owner had spliced in a toggle switch just for the headlights. Fortunately they left the male plugin for the three lever switch. Where connectors had either broken or failed there was a mish mash of pieced together "douglas" connectors mated with "Packard" connectors. the rear lights wiring had been cut into as well but I have straightened those out and had douglas connectors throughout. I'll cjeck out your link....Thanks kindly

maydaymurph 52 M38

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Sat Jul 28, 2018 7:22 pm

wow mdainsd, sounds like . you have had just as much fun as I am now. I'm a bit buffaloed by this one . I bought a late model M38 three light switch and simply pushed the male multi pin plug in and screwed down the retaining ring.
This part of the harness appeared untouched, so it was just a matter of matching up the wiring markers and plugging them in. The panel lights had the doubler and they mated up w/o incident or problem. I got all lights working just not like they should.
I'm about to just splice in a couple of wires, one from the headlights high and low beams and just put up with the panel lightsbeing on in B.O Drive/B.O Mark.
It won't be right but it will work. That is unless I get the thing figured out....I hope.

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Sat Jul 28, 2018 8:27 pm

All right one and all, Just went back to the jeep and disconnected, cleaned post thoroughly, checked wire markers and reconnected them all. Now the Service Drive lights work as they should with the panel lights on, high beam indicator seems like it is on all time right now but did notice it gets brighter on high beam. Service Drive with aux in the Park position works correctly. Black out drives work like they should (No Panel lights if I leave aux. lever in off position). I can live with that. So I'll button up the instrument panel tomorrow and move onto the next thing to do to get this veteran up and running again.

Once again Thanks for the input, advice, instruction, and suggestions.

L. Murphy 52 M38

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Jul 29, 2018 10:30 pm

Check the grounds real well on both headlight assemblies. Thats a common cause of the high beam deal you describe.

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:33 pm

mdainsd, can do will do. That’s a good possibility. I’ve repainted everything and now that you have reminded me; I’m not really sure if I scored the paint when I replaced the grounds. I’ll get that checked tomorrow. Especially since we have a break in the heat. I’m in N central TX and we are having a cold front. It only got up to 98 today and supposed to be the same tomorrow. Much better to work in than the “feels like” 116-123 we’ve been experiencing
I’ll post the results.kind thanks for the info
L. Murphy 1952 M38

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:12 pm

To say the least, it has been an adventure in wiring 101,2,3 etc.
mdainsd, I went back and unscrewed the grounds and took a dremel rotary wire wheel and removed some of the four coats of paint and re connected the ground wires and presto. The final problem was resolved!
Now all wiring is complete and onto fuel and vent lines.

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:48 pm

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:05 pm

Murphy,

Don't put that dremmel tool away. All those grounds that lack actual terminal to steel contact will give you grief sooner or later. Particularly the gauges where their housing ground to their mounting panel and the four quarter turns that must ground the gauge mounting panel to the dash. And do not overlook that main engine to frame ground strap at the right front engine mount.

maydaymurph · Post by **maydaymurph** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:50 pm

Thanks Wes, but for once (and it doesn’t happen often) I’m a step ahead. I we went back and attended to every ground. I’ve actually got the engine to frame and body double grounded.
As usual you are on top of things and we all appreciate your due diligence

wiring woes

wiring woes

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Wiring Woes M38

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Grounds on headlights

Wiring woes solved

Grounded welll