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I am ready to pull the rear axles to repack bearings and install inner seals but I cannot find the proper tool locally to do the job. I was told to use a slide hammer and although Auto Zone and Advance Auto both had them they were lacking the proper adaptor to attach to the axle so now I am not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

The puller is needed for removing the hub from the rear axle. Then you unbolt the rear axle bearing retainer and the axle will usually slide right out. A slide type puller is not the best choice. A striker type puller is the tool of choice. Most cases the tapered hub joint won't give to a slide type puller.


OTC Hub Puller Part # 7394 $159.00 You can find offshore units cheaper, often under $50



If you must try a cheaper slide puller you will need one with the two adapters at the far left (MY BAD) make that far right in this photo. Their usual problem is they often do not clear the threaded end of the axle.

do you mean at the far right of the pic?

I have the hub removed from the axle and the bearing retainer unbolted but the axle will not budge that is why I was wondering if I need a slide hammer or something to force the axle out. My local auto parts stores do not carry the right tool so are there other options?

Have you removed the brake backing plate?


This is where you should be right now

Don't loose track of any shims. Item E in illustration may be more than just one.


If you install a new bearing on either side you will have to re-adjust end play with these shims. Of cours you should measure end play anytime the axle is removed on either side.

Yes everything is removed including the backing plate. I see in the illustration a slide hammer with a three jaw puller around the axle nut and washer being used to pull the axle. I am heading back to Auto Zone to borrow one and give it a try. On the subject of shims the p/s axle had a shim in front and in back of the bearing retainer while the d/s axle had only one shim behind the bearing retainer. Does this sound correct?

Well the slide hammer did the trick got everything apart repacked the bearings and installed the inner seals. Looking at the manual the shims are the first part to go on after the axles are in place. Upon closer inspection there are indeed two shims on each side the two on the d/s were so tight together it looked like one. When I disassembled the p/s I was real careful to put everything in order the way it came off and there was one shim on each side of the beating retainer so did someone put it back together wrong and in fact both shims should be up against the axle tube flange which it shows in the manual? I would say it was reassembled wrong just want to be sure.

Well the slide hammer did the trick got everything apart repacked the bearings and installed the inner seals. Looking at the manual the shims are the first part to go on after the axles are in place. Upon closer inspection there are indeed two shims on each side the two on the d/s were so tight together it looked like one. When I disassembled the p/s I was real careful to put everything in order the way it came off and there was one shim on each side of the beating retainer so did someone put it back together wrong and in fact both shims should be up against the axle tube flange which it shows in the manual? I would say it was reassembled wrong just want to be sure.

One other thing how critical is the end play? I noted how much play there was before I removed the axles and I have what I think feels about the same but it is just an educated guess.

Put the shims only in the location shown in the illustration for either side.



The end play is adjusted per the spec in TM 9-804 page 139 (top of page) or TM 9-8012 page 251 Par. (1) thru (13). Setting is 0.003 to 0.007.

The end play determines the bearing life by controlling pressure/heat buildup. I think this is important enough to get her right the first time. Always cheaper in time and money that way.

You measure it with a dial indicator.

What would happen if I have excessive end play? Right now I would say it is over the .007. Just wondering if it would be ok as is.

As I already stated. Too tight bearings run too hot to loose bearings rattle & hammer = accelerated wear. Why are you fighting this simple adjustment that can save over $100 in time & parts?

Probably the reason I am avoiding setting the axle end play is that I have never done it and I do not own a dial indicator.

Harbor Freight sells dial indicators and the Magnetic mount. It will probably be cheaper than having premature wear and having to redo what you have done and more.
Remember Jeep stands for
JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET.

Anybody else have a recommendation for a dial indicator that will do the job for reasonable $$$. I have no problem spending top dollar for a quality tool if it will see constant use but in my case it will only see sporadic use. Would I be better off buying a quality used one off ebay or buy a new lesser brand. Thanks for all the help.