Distributor Weights

horse · Post by **horse** » Tue Sep 21, 2021 3:20 pm

While checking the timing I would like to clean up the inside of the distributor and oil parts as required. I have read that you should use 40 w motor oil on the weights, but how much and where. Also to oil the felt pad with a lighter oil but what weight?
I have also seen people talk about an Oiler around the distributor but after looking have not found anything. Thanks in advance. Horse.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:42 pm

Hi Horse,
I assume you have the M38 waterproof distributor? I could be mistaken (because I use a CJ distributor), but don't think yours has an external oiler port on it. Seems like it would defeat the waterproof feature?

Do you have a copy of TM9-1825B, Electrical Equipment (Autolite)? It has an extensive chapter on distributors. From what I read in several places, it refers to using "preservative lubricating oil", which I'd guess is a light machine mineral oil.

My CJ distributor has an external oil port and the manual says to use a few drops of 30W motor oil. Same for the felt wick under the rotor, and a drop on the pivot points on the weights. I can't imagine that using 40W would cause a problem.

Good luck!

horse · Post by **horse** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:21 am

Hi. yes I have the waterproof distributor and good point why it does not have an oiler. I will look at the manual which Wes has loaded. Thanks for the tips on using the oil.
Regards.
Horse

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:32 pm

The external oiler port would allow water in when fording?

45auto · Post by **45auto** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:46 pm

On the waterproof distributers, the "oiler" is low on the housing behind a brass slotted plug (you use a screwdriver to remove) inside there is a one inch long or so square felt that you would saturate with oil and replace.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:33 pm

Yup, there it is, top of page 245 of TM9-1825B, Electrical Equipment (Autolite), November 1952.

"Remove slotted plug and take out felt wick. Inspect wick for damage and soak in preservative lubricating oil. Fill wick cavity with automotive and artillery grease and insert wick. Wipe off excess grease. Coat plug with plastic type gasket cement and install."

Thanks Harold!

Post by **wesk** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:02 pm

I would take the time to read all of pages 241 thru 247 in TM 9-1825B dated 1952. There are more than one lubricating location on the distributor.

horse · Post by **horse** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 6:55 am

Thanks to the both of you I will have a good study.
Regards. Horse

horse · Post by **horse** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 9:59 am

After reading I find it does have an oiler inside the distributor.
Also the TM talks about using Automotive and Artillery grease on some parts also preservative lubricating oil.
What would be the modern equivelants I could use as a substitute?
Thanks Horse.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:15 am

Too many products on the market to research equivalents. You can google "Grease Automotive Artillery" and get many hits. The Army still uses it today.

I think most any quality modern wheel bearing grease would work well. And a drop or three of the same motor oil you use in your crankcase would also work well on the felt wicks and pivots.

horse · Post by **horse** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 3:12 pm

Thanks Ron at least I have those items on stock.
Horse.

Post by **wesk** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 9:56 pm

It is not that difficult to search for products if you first learn the modern version of the MIL Spec for the stuff you are looking for. Here's an example:

I went looking for Oil, lubricating general purpose preservative.

First I googled: Guide to military lubricant specifications 1950's thru 1960's

Then I selected from the listing: http://www.lubrita.com/news/138/671/Do- ... d-meaning/

Then I located VV-L-800

VV-L-800
Lubricating Oil, General Purpose, Preservative.

Then I googled

VV-L-800

Then from the listings I selected: http://everyspec.com/FED_SPECS/V/VV-L-800C_7687/

That took me here: http://everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF-03 ... 033_35537/

Once there I saw the most current Spec for Lube Oil GP Preservative was MIL-PRF-32033A. So in the "SEARCH" block at the top of the Every Spec page I entered "MIL-PRF-32033A" which yielded a list of products and their suppliers: http://everyspec.com/search_result.php? ... 8683735j17

AS YOU CAN SEE!!!!! The results are a far cry from 30 Wt. engine oil!!!!!!

This is not aimed at embarrassing anyone. It is meant only as learning experience. I have been bending wrenches for 61 years. Started out as a automotive hobbyist, worked as an auto mechanic, got drafted and worked 22 years on military aircraft while still pursuing the auto hobbyist/drag racing recreational mechanicing. and since retiring from the Air Force in 1989 I've spent the last 32 years maintaining civilian aircraft and pursuing my jeep collecting hobby and helping to run this web site. With that said maybe you will understand why when I read the phrase, "Inspect wick for damage and soak in preservative lubricating oil" . the first thing to come to my mind was LPS-1, LPS-2 & LPS-3 Lubricants all considered General Purpose Preservative types. Had choosing this lubricant been my problem I would simply go to my lube cabinet and grab a can of LPS-2 and lubed the distributor wick. But not everyone in this hobby has my background experience so I chose to show here how one without this experience can still find the correct lubricant to use under the needed circumstances.

horse · Post by **horse** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 6:27 am

Thanks Wes good point well made.
I always have tried to get the correct product for the job not just "this will do" type attitude.
I will hold on until I have the required products.
Thanks Horse.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:29 am

Thank you, Wes, and forgive me, but I was trying to spare Horse from being dragged through the Knothole School of Mil-Spec Land.
After a lifetime of navigating it myself I can truthfully say it's not easy to decipher.

In practical everyday usable terms, all I could find that meets MIL-PRF-32033A that you can actually buy is this https://skygeek.com/brayco-300.html at $22 a quart (a lifetime supply) that also has a 6-year shelf life. There are probably other specialty houses to order it from because you sure aren't very likely to find it at any auto parts store near you.

I still wonder what the average soldier back in the 1952 motor pool would use? I bet 30W is high on the list.

Yes, LPS-2 is commonly available and probably a better product than 30W to use today, but it doesn't meet MIL-PRF-32033A that I could see. LPS-2 is MIL-PRF-16173E. What to do?

Post by **wesk** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 10:47 pm

Look harder Ron!

Military Standard MIL-PRF-32033A Type I Class 2
General Purpose Lubricants
General Purpose Lubricants
General purpose lubricants reduce friction and wear, and prevent machinery from overheating. These fluids leave a slippery coating on two surfaces to keep moving parts like wheels, hinges, and gears moving smoothly and extend the life of equipment. Lubricants also provide some protection against water damage, contaminants, and corrosives.
Search
Container Size 12 oz
Lubricant Container Aerosol Can
Lubricant Base Petroleum Distillates
Primary Additive No Additives
NSF Rating Not Rated
Item # 5MN59
Price $14.03 / each
Ability One

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... ly&t=13185
___________________________________________________________

The real problem with your 30 Wt engine oil suggestion is it's viscosity. It is way too heavy/thick. Especially in colder weather.

I still wonder what the average soldier back in the 1952 motor pool would use?

The definition here would be a troop halfway between a bone head & a rocket scientist.