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Any one know where I might find the rubber boot that goes on the end of the horn switch at the bottom of the steering column?

thanks

I don't belive there is one. At the top is a rubber horn button cover.

original horn switches did have a rubber boot over the pigtails. I have not seen them sold separately as original or repros. I have seen a large diameter piece of shrink tubing placed over the end of the wwitch and shrunk and formed over the two pigtails. This large shrink tubing can be found via your local power company as most care it on their trucks.

Anyone have a source for horn switches? I have a nice one but the wires are rotted. Can the wires be replaced???
Rick C

Thanks Keats.........I will take a look at doing that. RickC......the wires just plug into the bottom of the switch using the same wire pins as the rest of the douglass connections. You may have to look close at yours....mine were soldered in. I dont know if this was a "bubba" type fix or somewhere during its military service someone put a drop of solder on the connection to make sure it stayed together. My wires are fried too but I have all the parts to make new pigtails for the wiring. The switches themselves are fairly rare.....I have seen very few of them for sale and then they are priced out of sight. Thanks for the photo Wes....good pic of the boot I am looking for.

Oh COOL!!!! Thanks!! I checked mine and got one wire out, have to buy a soldering iron to get the other out. I had no idea it was that easy. My switch looked really nice under all the grease but the wires and boot were bad. Can someone supply the lenths of the wires so I can put some new ones on???
Still need to buy all the stuff for inside the column plus the button. Any advice on assembling it? Looks like it adjusts at switch.....
Rick C

Rick..my wire lengths: one is 18 1/2" and the other was 26 1/2 "; and that was measured from end of the connection pins. This should be right as I believe my wiring harness is unmolested. Maybe wes has a diagram of the horn setup in the steering column. Once you screw the switch into the bottom there is a long wire rod about the size of a heavy wire coat hanger and at the steering end there is a small metal tab that fits inside of the rubber horn button and that button fits over your steering wheel nut. I would imagine if you go to a welding supply shop you can get a piece of steel gas welding rod about the right diameter and get a long piece and then cut it to fit.

Before you put the bottom connection on, you have to insert the long rod that go's up the tube from the BOTTOM. After the wire rod is installed you have to use a pair of small needle nose lock vise plier's to hold it at the top. (do not pull it up to far or you will have to start over if the rod come's out of the steering box to far) The button at the top has a groove cut into it, this is for pinching together slightly, so that over time it will not rattle loose and move down to no horn, the groove is in the threaded part of the button.

Thanks for the help guys!! I had one person etell me that the adjustment was in the switch...adjust it then snug with the lock nut. Had another tell me that the adjustment was in the button at the top of the column. Is there a "better" way???

Remmember that the rod go's in from the bottom, if you try it from the top, you can spend a day fishing for the opening inside the gear box. If anyone every got it through the top, you where lucky.

Its correct that what little adjustment you have is in the switch end......its a smart move to use a small pair of needle nosed vice grips to lock onto the rod once you get it in then adjust your switch to where the end of the rod (at the button end) is just a hair below the top of the steering wheel nut. Personally I dont care too much for the way the rod and button is originally set up and it seems to work a little better; and have something solid to push the rubber button against; if you take a brass shell casing (30 cal. works real good) and squirt it full of any type of silicon automotive sealer,
let it dry about halfway then then push the shell casing over the top of the rod at the button end. Once it dries it doesnt rattle and gives you a nice solid feel when you push on your horn button. And with the non harding silicon it comes off easily.

GAMILLERMAN...

Sorry, but the adjustment for the horn switch is at the top of the steering column...

The rod is threaded and screws onto the button at the top. this is adjusted for proper operation. and covered with the rubber button cover...

The horn switch screws in tight with a little teflon tape (modern) or maybe a little permatex to prevent the lube from the gearbox from leaking out...

I applied a touch of permatex to the rod at the threads to keep it from unscrewing...

Hope this helps...

Hal......maybe some were....I am on my second M38 and both just had straight rods in them.....in fact both of them came sliding out through the bottom of the steering column when the horn button nut was removed. no threads at all on the rod. And I assume your refering to the rod that goes between the horn button nut and the button on the switch at the bottom of the column...........two different types made?.......Wes.how bout some help here............

Addition........After Hals post I had to go out and check mine out....I posted a couple of photos in my gallery of the ends of the rod and the switch itself. THe only way you can adjust my setup is at the bottom with the switch itself. you use the jam nut on the switch and keep it tight after screwing it in the proper amount. Mine is an April 52 production and although never knew the exact model of the other one I had; it was a very early model. Hal I know you have a CDN model.....is there a difference>?

Hal, as I said before the horn button has a slot cut into it at the threads, if you pinch this notch, you will not need permatex to hold it, thats what it was put there for.