Stripping Frame and other metal ...
- tdavis
- Contributor

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- Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Marietta, Georgia
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Stripping Frame and other metal ...
I have my jeep down to the bare frame, and in doing some research on the best way to clean the frame, I came across these chemicals available at Home Depot:
Lye (close to it, anyway) = Zep Crystal Clog remover ZCRY2 - $5.99 for 32oz. - there is a whole discussion on this over on the "G":
http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14836
Phosphoric Acid (metal prep) = Zep Shower Tub and Tile Cleaner - $6.88 for a Gallon
Went to the Zep site and looked at the MSDS info to verify.
You can also buy lye here:
http://www.bestdeal.org/Merchant2/merch ... y_Code=277
Just thought I'd pass the info along. I am planning on getting the frame down to bare metal and then using POR15, primer, and then Gillespie.
Lye (close to it, anyway) = Zep Crystal Clog remover ZCRY2 - $5.99 for 32oz. - there is a whole discussion on this over on the "G":
http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14836
Phosphoric Acid (metal prep) = Zep Shower Tub and Tile Cleaner - $6.88 for a Gallon
Went to the Zep site and looked at the MSDS info to verify.
You can also buy lye here:
http://www.bestdeal.org/Merchant2/merch ... y_Code=277
Just thought I'd pass the info along. I am planning on getting the frame down to bare metal and then using POR15, primer, and then Gillespie.
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OKCM38CDN
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north-shore
- Contributor

- Posts: 146
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: Tracadie-sheila Canada
- tdavis
- Contributor

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Marietta, Georgia
- Contact:
What aout inside the frame rails where they are boxed in? You can't get inside there with a sand blaster.
Also, I was thinking for the small parts - like the transmission cross member, the voltage regulator plate, the master cylinder heat shield, all of the brackets, nuts, bolts, footman loops, wheels, bumperettes, etc. that it may be easier to put them in a basket in a bucket of lye solution and then rinse them the next day - no fuss. Then just pour the lye solution down the drain - it's just drain cleaner after all.
Also, I was thinking for the small parts - like the transmission cross member, the voltage regulator plate, the master cylinder heat shield, all of the brackets, nuts, bolts, footman loops, wheels, bumperettes, etc. that it may be easier to put them in a basket in a bucket of lye solution and then rinse them the next day - no fuss. Then just pour the lye solution down the drain - it's just drain cleaner after all.
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OKCM38CDN
I got a small blaster from harbor freight for $100 and blast all my small parts... got a presurized blaster for a few bucks less and do the larger ones. Just remember to get a big enough compressor...
As for the portions inside even your lye cannot get the rust out of there...
your choice... just giving options...
As for the portions inside even your lye cannot get the rust out of there...
your choice... just giving options...
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ocwd
- Jeep Enthusiast

- Posts: 721
- Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Placentia, CA
Blasting Cabinet
What size compressor tank is needed to run a small sand blasting cabinet?
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
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north-shore
- Contributor

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- LeeG
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana
I used a pressure washer with a "turbo" nozzle (works 500% better than any regular spray tip, i use it on concrete and it just peels rocks out of the concrete that otherwise aren't even seen) and then sprayed the frame with some aircraft paint remover (the kind in the spray can from the parts store). Then pressure washed it again and the frame was all shinny metal for about 2 weeks. I let it set out in the wheather so that some surface rust could occur since this is recommended by POR-15 for POR-15 to bond correctly. Then I sprayed it with a spray bottle filled with "Metal Ready" from POR-15 and rinsed with a water hose and let dry for a day. Finally put the POR-15 rust preventative paint on with a 3" brush. End result looked really good.
I did all this because I enjoy doing things myself and don't have a sand-blaster handy.[/img]
I did all this because I enjoy doing things myself and don't have a sand-blaster handy.[/img]
1953 M38A1 F-Head
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ocwd
- Jeep Enthusiast

- Posts: 721
- Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Placentia, CA
Frame
Lee,
That sounds super messy. I was planning on having my frame sand blasted then using metal prep prior to primer coat. I have a 3.5 HP compressor with a 35 gallon tank. I wonder if that will run a small blasting cabinet. I'll have to see what the manufacturer suggests.
Dave
That sounds super messy. I was planning on having my frame sand blasted then using metal prep prior to primer coat. I have a 3.5 HP compressor with a 35 gallon tank. I wonder if that will run a small blasting cabinet. I'll have to see what the manufacturer suggests.
Dave
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north-shore
- Contributor

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- Location: Tracadie-sheila Canada
- LeeG
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana
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ocwd
- Jeep Enthusiast

- Posts: 721
- Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Placentia, CA
Frame
North Shore,
You say you use glass beads on small parts? What do the glass beads cost as opposed to sand? Can the sand and or glass beads be recycled after each use? Are you saying that your 3.5 hp 35 gal compressor could not run the blasting tank?
Lee,
It's good to know that there are alternatives to sand blasting. I think i'll go the blsting route. There will be plenty of work for me to do after that is complete.
Dave
You say you use glass beads on small parts? What do the glass beads cost as opposed to sand? Can the sand and or glass beads be recycled after each use? Are you saying that your 3.5 hp 35 gal compressor could not run the blasting tank?
Lee,
It's good to know that there are alternatives to sand blasting. I think i'll go the blsting route. There will be plenty of work for me to do after that is complete.
Dave
- LeeG
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana
Yes Dave, there are alternatives. I have even used this same method on my hood except I had to use paint remover first because it had 4 layers of different color paint on it. There are only 2 shops in my town that do sandblasting and that is all they do. No walnut or any other type of media blasting in town. I used the paint remover once between each coat with the turbo nozzle until I finally got down to the original OD green which was too tough for the pressure washer. I used a 50grit gator pad on a DA orbital sander where needed after that.
1953 M38A1 F-Head
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north-shore
- Contributor

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- Location: Tracadie-sheila Canada
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OKCM38CDN
My compressor ( 3hp / 21 gallon) works with my blasting cabinet...
but a larger one would work better... I use sand as I can get it for a couple of dollars a bag, I keep it in used kitty litter bins; stays nice and dry...
I blast all the small parts and if I need to strip then I use a dip tank(14 gallon Rubbermaid tub)...
I got my cabinet at Harbor Freight for about $100 on sale...
Hope this helps...
I blast all the small parts and if I need to strip then I use a dip tank(14 gallon Rubbermaid tub)...
I got my cabinet at Harbor Freight for about $100 on sale...
Hope this helps...

