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Hi all,

I posted this question on the "other" forum, but didn't get an answer. I'm sure it's because I didn't make myself clear.

I'm reassembling my rear axles after replacing the bearings, cups, and seals. I set up the end-play IAW the manual, and it came out to around .004 each side. I checked the freedom of rotation of the shaft before I installed the hubs and it seemed stiff. I realize that "stiff" is a subjective thing. After installing the hubs I put a spring scale on one of the lugs, and discovered that it takes 10-12 lbs. of force to turn hub. I've not dealt with this type of set-up and, for once, I'm being cautious enough to stop when the question marks appear above my head.

Question #1: Is this an acceptable amount of drag for a semi-floating axle?

Question #2: How high can I Q the axle nut in order to get the cotter hole to line up with the castellation? I've started at 150 ft/lbs.

Thanks! Dave

1-Too much. Could be an incorrect end float setting at outboard axle shim point, or incorrect bearing shimming at diff or excessive pinion pre-load. You should have .001 to .006" end float at outboard end of axle. Pinion pre-load should give a rotating torque of 10 to 25 inch pounds. Diff bearing pre-load is correct when backlash is .001 to .002".

2-150 is the minimum torque then whatever it takes to make the first available cotterpin hole is ok.

I didn't mess with the differentials at all (should have made that clear), other than to take the covers off for inspection. Assuming that the diff is set up correctly, that leaves axle end play incorrect.

Should the axles have a similar rotational torque value? I'm trying to gauge what "feels" right. I put a Q wrench on the axle nut and the axle turns with around 55 in/lbs.

If one side has the incorrect end play, can it bind both hubs?

I appreciate the help...

Dave

I see on your G503 post you left the key out. It must be installed before you check hub clearance/drag.

Yep, I got straightened out on that. Oops...

DaveO wrote:
If one side has the incorrect end play, can it bind both hubs?

I appreciate the help...

Dave

The shafts meet in the middle via a spider gear shaft. Thrust is transmitted from one to the other so the end play should be the same on both. I dont know how you could have one with clearance and the other with out unless something is really wrong.
On mine the previous service guy shimmed all on one side and none on the other and it had very about .040" play on the no shim side with 1/4" on the other. I reduced the shims down until I had the proper clearance; divided the shims in half; applied the shims to both sides and wala even clearance.
This is after I replace all other parts during an overhaul as the bearings were all pitted and I didn't trust the wheel bearings after being mis shimmed so badly.