1952 M38 Rear Brakes

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Scott21
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1952 M38 Rear Brakes

Post by Scott21 »

I am guessing that I have to take off that monster bolt to pull the drum. Is the bolt inch and a half?

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wesk
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Post by wesk »

It's a nut. You loosen it about four turns, back off the brake shoe adjustment, install monster hub puller and operate puller to break hub loose by tightening striker with hammer then smacking end of puller shaft sharply with hammer.

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Last edited by wesk on Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wes K
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Bill_F
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Post by Bill_F »

if you are just pulling the drum you shouldnt have to remove the hub.
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Scott21
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Post by Scott21 »

Just pulling the drum
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Bill_F
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Post by Bill_F »

The drum should slid off the hub, probably is just stuck, hit with some pb blaster or something similar.
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Post by Scott21 »

Bill

That is what I was thinking. I will give it a good shot. IAre the rear drums like the front drums?

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wesk
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Post by wesk »

If you have very early axles you can certainly force the drum off the hub. But the 5 lug studs have a serrated shank that is swaged tightly to both the hub and the drum. When the drum and hub are seperated a new set of lug studs will then be required. You could of course just drive the 5 studs back out of the hub and pull 5 new ones back thru then install the drum and wheel and tighten the lug nuts to finish pulling the 5 studs up flush in the hub but you cannot complete the required swaging operation of the studs because the hub must be removed to do that. Not swaging the studs tightly in the assembled hub/drum set results in the drum being able to move slightly each time a forward or reverse load is placed on it. This will result in a constant loosening of drum around the studs which cause wear on the drum and the studs.. So it's your choice. Also be aware that early drums fit behind the hub and late drums fit in front of the hub. Also if your drum has the three counter sunk screws then all you need to do is remove those three screws and tap the edge of the drum while maintaining pressure against the rear edge of the drum.

Your first step in all of this should be read pages 281 & 282 in your TM 9-8012 Operation and Organizational Maintenance 1/4 Ton 4x4 Utility Truck M38 :wink:

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Most M38 and M38A1.

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Early civvy brake setup

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Late civvy brake setup.
Last edited by wesk on Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Post by Scott21 »

Thanks Wes

I have the three screrews and the hub will wiggle around the studs. I guess my question is , can I take the drum off to check the brakes with out pulling the hub.


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Post by Scott21 »

Hey Wes

I cant get the pictures at work. Thanks

I got the drum off

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Post by wesk »

If you have the three screws then yes just remove the screws and tap the drum until it pops loose. On an axle with no screws the drum relies on the tight fit of the lug studs to keep things from banging loose.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Post by Scott21 »

Wes and Bill

Thamks, I got the drums off and hope to be finished with the brake cylindars today


Scott
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