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Help w/ troubleshooting ammeter/regulator on 12v M38

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 11:12 am
by Kendall
Hi,
My M38 has been converted to 12v. My electrical system stopped charging and was told it was the regulator. I replaced the regulator, but ammeter still does not move. I followed the steps in the "Troubleshooting for Military Standard..." by Bob W. I disconnnected the wire from the ammeter to the starter (which connects with a wire from the positive terminal of battery) and got the measurement of the voltage of the battery. When I disconnect the wire from the ammeter that goes to the BAT terminal of regulator I get a reading of .8 volts.
According to the guide both leads should indicate battery voltage. Would this still be correct for civilian 12v system? Do I have another bad regulator or is it my ammeter? Can I use the multitester to check the ammeter? If so, how?
Thanks for the help,
Kendall

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:51 pm
by wesk
Kendall,
Let's back up a little here before we make a wrong move and fry something. We need to positively ID what type generator/alternator and regulator you have. Can you you give me the make/model/part numbers of each? Can you give us a good detailed photo of both installations?

Update

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 12:58 pm
by Kendall
After the static test and sending the original question, I went out to start the jeep for a test ride. After the jeep started the ammeter showed charging.
It does not show dicharge with ignition and lights on though.
I do not know the particulars of the generator. The new regulator is a BWD brand model R158. It matches the Delco Remy one I replaced and it matches the book at OReillys for a 1952 Jeep, 12v.
Thanks for your help,
Kendall

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 2:08 pm
by wesk
it matches the book at OReillys for a 1952 Jeep, 12v.
Now that is interesting since Willys didn't introduce 12 volt until 1957. Most likely with a Delco voltage regulator the generator would also be delco and this is important because the Delco units and the Auto-lite units regulate the fields differently and require entirely different troublshooting and polarizing routines. It would be in your best interest to determine the generaot model and part number specifically so problems down the road don't cost you more damage and money if the wrong procedures are used to test or troubleshoot the system. The generators all originally had a small metal tag ID'ing them.

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Delco top and Auto-Lite bottom