willysmjeeps.com

Don't have the rear fuel tank tab needed to fasten down rear side of tank.

Main fuel tank strap holds most of tank down but there is still alot of movement at opposite side.

Any ideas how to completely fasten fuel tank into position other than welding a makeshift tab into place?


Col.B

Do you have an original tank with the tab on the tank and you are missing the tab that bolts to the floor?

or

Do you have an incorrect tank that does not have the tab welded on per factory and you are looking to make a fastener of any type?

Tom

The later.

Presumed it was an original M38 fuel tank compared to many pictures I have seen... except there is no tab. I'd say there was never one. On inspection there is no sign of broken welding etc.

I do have the bolted restraining tab on floor of jeep. Any ideas on how to fix?

Col

An original tank had the tab welded with 4 spot welds. You might have a surplus tank that was "surplused" because it did not meet specifications or more likely you have a repro.
The current repro tanks coming through today have the tab on them.

You might get lucky putting a "want" on the page and someone with a junker tank may be able to help by cutting a tab off for you. Otherwise you will be best to make the tab and weld it.

If you choose to weld hopefully you have never put fuel in the tank. Be sure to either inert it or get it cleaned before welding if you have already fueled it.

Tom

Jeep is still a work in progress and tank has been dry for several years or more.

Will endeavour to make a tab and spot-weld onto tank.

As a matter of course when fuel tanks have remained idle & un-used for a period of time is there any requirement to replace anything before filling?

Noted your article "tank welding".

Thanks Tom.

MOVED. I meant to post this here earlier.

This is a good time to take off the sender and level sensor. It will give you a clear view into the tank and it is very likely that a powder or varnish is still in the tank. Pay attention to the old filter and clean it by flushing with solvent, possibly acetone. Even if the metal looks clean you will probably benefit from washing out the tank. I used a pressure washer and was able to remove a ton of old stuff, rust scale, dust, dirt and unidentifiable crud. The combination of pressure washer and wet shop vac can get a lot out. I like to go overboard with solvent cleaning after the pressure washing.
Replace gaskets, tap the holes, install new sealing washers.

On welding: be careful. Even a long "dry" tank has vapor (vapour) inside that will explode. The M38 tank has 2 compartments so you need to be sure you clean both. It always is good practice to inert the tank with automobile exhaust before welding.

Tom