I've got my engine back from the shop and its currently on an engine stand being repainted......my transmission's been rebuilt.......transfer case rebuilt......clutch housing cleaned up and repainted......frame blasted and repainted.......and both axles rebuilt (at least on the ends). My question is......with the frame reassembled with axles and springs.....is it easier to assemble the engine, clutch housing, transmission and transfer case into one unit prior to mounting the engine in the frame......or mount the engine (supported on a jack at the rear)...add the clutch housing....followed by the transmission....and finally the transfer case?
This is an M38A-1 and the tub is off and out of the way as is the grill and all other body and steering parts. I removed the power plant as one unit...but being a one man shop I'm not real comfortable with trying to get everything lined up at once going back in. I am definitely open to suggestions. Thanks.
Jim
Reassembly question
- idiocrates
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- acengraver
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I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions on this but here's how I recently did mine.
With the engine still on the stand, hoist the transmission and transfer case onto a sturdy temporary table (2x4's with a strong plywood top maybe?)
Then use your crane to move the engine into position. Assuming your clutch disc is aligned correctly with the pilot bearing you shuld be able to work the transmission shaft into position and wiggle everthing into final alignment. It went better than I expected and you don't run the risk of damaging your freshly painted oilpan. Once they are mated and secured you'll need to change the lifting strap to the rear position of the lifting ring to adjust the CG. I used a chain fall to temporarily take the weight off the crane strap.
Good Luck!
With the engine still on the stand, hoist the transmission and transfer case onto a sturdy temporary table (2x4's with a strong plywood top maybe?)
Then use your crane to move the engine into position. Assuming your clutch disc is aligned correctly with the pilot bearing you shuld be able to work the transmission shaft into position and wiggle everthing into final alignment. It went better than I expected and you don't run the risk of damaging your freshly painted oilpan. Once they are mated and secured you'll need to change the lifting strap to the rear position of the lifting ring to adjust the CG. I used a chain fall to temporarily take the weight off the crane strap.
Good Luck!
- wesk
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If you have the engine lift plate and the frame is open then it's a tough choice. I don't like hanging all the weight on the lift plate. Those head bolt threads are getting very tired as the are over 50 years old.
I would use the engine hoist to set the pre-assembled tranny/transfer/bellhousing in place on the frame and bolt her up. Put a floor jack under the tranny to support it and provide an adjustment window.
Now with the engine assembled and clutch/bellhousing adapter plate installed and side mounts installed get two 3/8"x24 studs about 3" long and screw one in the top left rear engine flange and one in the top right rear engine flange so these will act as guides as you slide the motor back against the bellhousing. Set out the two shouldered bellhousing dowell bolts so they are ready to install in the lower two flange holes and the other two 3/8"x24 bell bolts for the top two holes. Lay out a wrench for the crank nut so you can rotate the crank slightly to align the tranny input shaft splines.
Now hang the engine by the front hook of the lift ring and position it to align with the bell pilot studs and slide her back in place turning the crank slightly if needed. Install the bottom two dowell bolts first then remove the guide studs and install the top two bolts. Now align the front side mounts and install the mount to frame bolts and don't forget the ground strap on the right mount.
I would use the engine hoist to set the pre-assembled tranny/transfer/bellhousing in place on the frame and bolt her up. Put a floor jack under the tranny to support it and provide an adjustment window.
Now with the engine assembled and clutch/bellhousing adapter plate installed and side mounts installed get two 3/8"x24 studs about 3" long and screw one in the top left rear engine flange and one in the top right rear engine flange so these will act as guides as you slide the motor back against the bellhousing. Set out the two shouldered bellhousing dowell bolts so they are ready to install in the lower two flange holes and the other two 3/8"x24 bell bolts for the top two holes. Lay out a wrench for the crank nut so you can rotate the crank slightly to align the tranny input shaft splines.
Now hang the engine by the front hook of the lift ring and position it to align with the bell pilot studs and slide her back in place turning the crank slightly if needed. Install the bottom two dowell bolts first then remove the guide studs and install the top two bolts. Now align the front side mounts and install the mount to frame bolts and don't forget the ground strap on the right mount.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- maeserik
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We used a strap around the engine ( it was our GPW) but the engine and transmission together is nearly the same :

was easy and makes no damage on the paint
Erik
was easy and makes no damage on the paint
Erik
1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865
and this webside
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865
and this webside