willysmjeeps.com

i am really confused !!!!!

inherited a jeep that looks like nellybelle. I have photos and will share if you can help me identify the year. I am confused because the jeep has willys all over it but the engine has s a ford number on it, however, the top of the engine has willy on it with the spark plug firing sequence. I do not what i have nor do i know what to order to fix it. Has anyone ever seen an engine with both ford and willys parts.

I found the following information on the engine. On the driver side i found a plate that has the following info on it .020 on the top left, A2770-5 towards the bottom of the plate, and .010 or it could be .070 on the top right of the plate.

On the passenger side on the lower part of the motor i saw the f which i assume is the ford stamp then i saw cpw 6015

i would appreciate any help with this.

thanks,

the cpw is probably gpw. sound like you have at least a ford block. Pics would help us help you.

As Bill mentions it is not uncommon to get a Willys jeep with a Ford GPW block and Willys head. Ford built close to half of the WWII jeeps and they had their own block casting (GPW 6015) and had "Ford" or a "F" on all their parts. Post your photos of the jeep here and if you do not know how then email them to me and I'll post them for you. Just click on the small letter icon for my email.

I was sent some pics so I will post them,

Looks like an m38 body and frame, cj2a winshield frame

Well there Wizard,
You are not starting off too bad. You have most of an M38 there from a body/frame stand point.

You need to first decide what you want the jeep to be? A trailer queen show jeep, a driven show jeep, a nice looking daily driver, or a work/hunting jeep.

Then how much time and money you have to put into the jeep.

Then how much of the work you have the talent and tools to do.

Either show jeep category will be expensive because you are missing a lot of high dollar items.

The daily driver will also be a little expensive because it will have to pass highway safety standards and be reliable in modern traffic. This will require some improvements and modernizations. The up side of this class is you can retain the 12 volt civilian electrical system

So let us know the answers to these questions and then we can help you sort out a list of needs and goals.

Wes, After consulting with the family, we would like to have a nice daily driver but keep the jeep as stock as possible.

I owned a 1970 Boss Mustang 302 back in the 90's. It was a daily driver but i kept it stock but not show room condition.

If the jeep has any uniqueness to it then I would not want to tamper with it. I would like to keep it as stock as possible.

I do not know how much to budget, but I would like to start off between $5,000 and $10,000 dollars

I do not have the tools nor the talent to perfrom hardly any of the work myself without direction.

Is this enough information to get me started.

I last cranked the jeep in June 2008. I ran the jeep around the ranch. I put into four wheel drive to go through the drainage ditches around the land. The oil pressure as measured on the dash guage started out high but got progressively lower.

The brakes do not work so I had to put the jeep into first and then coast to stop. Needless to say i only drove it in the open part of the rance.

I have given you as much information as i have.

I look forward to hearing back.

Thanks,

Wes, Ryan, and the others are your best source for guidance.
I'll give you my uninvited perspective. I've always wanted one (or more) of these old Army jeeps. After many years of looking, debating, etc I found one that was mostly stock and well on its way to being restored, for about $6k. That said, I still have put close to $4k in labor and probably another $2k in parts. Some labor I've done myself but things like the e-brake, and other major mechanical stuff I haven't had the time, place, or tools to do it without guidance like you. I also took the position that I wanted it to look right on the outside but also be something I can use daily and not worry about a high-priced original item breaking. I've used original parts where it made sense to me and modern or repro where they made sense. But since I never plan to officially sho the jeep, my objective is the 6-foot rule. If it looks right from 6 feet, go with it.
For you, around a ranch or on the local roads, maybe just cleaned up is enough. You can always gradually replace the none-correct pieces with correct ones as you find them. But I would advise taking the priority of what is necessary to make it safe and reliable on the road and then work the finer details from there.
Depending on local labor and parts used and it's current condition you may be able to get that done for under $5k, but it all depends.
So, there's my 25 cents worth. You can check out the pictures of my jeep under whydahdvr. I still have a long way to go on niceties.
Good luck!

Wizard,
That's all I need to know.

1-Things you can't do yourself because of experience or proper tooling and shop equipment. (In this group you should list each item or project that fits the discription)

Engine overhaul. (About $1800 to $2000)

Body repair and painting ($1500 to $2000)

Differential overhauls. (If needed $200 each)

Some of the bushing replacements and press type jobe in the tranny/transfer.

New glass installation in new windshield asembly if needed.

2-Things you can do youself.

Engine removal and installation.

Tranny/transfer removal installation and teardown/inspection.

Body removal and disasembly.

Removal and installation of accessories.

Installation of new brake system to include dual master cylinder, 11" drum brakes and new plumbing and rebuilt parking brake system.

Installation of new electrical harness.

Installation of new exhaust system.

Minor refurbishment of fuel tank and new plumbing. (If major repairs of tank are needed move this to 1)

Rebuilding of seats.

Installation of new tires and if desired modern wheels.

Installation of new top and bows.

Refurbishment of gages, senders, horn and light assemblies. (some of this if major may have to be moved to 1)

Rebuilding of the springs and driveshafts.

Now if you'll review this list and add whatever feel needs to be added and move any items you feel need to be moved then repost your amended list we can comment on the final plan.

Parts acquisition should include the following:

5 new tires. I would not use the military treads types. I would recommend something in all terrain and about 15 x 9.5 or 10.0 (About $560)

5 new wheels. I would recommend 15" by 7" (About $450)

New air cleaner. For looks you can go with a stock early CJ2A type oil bath modified for an internal paper element and to look like the M38 fording type cleaner. This would only run about ($45). (An M38 air cleaner will start at $150)

CJ3A or M38 windshield assembly. ($150 to $175)

I would go with an electric wiper set-up. ($150)

New Exhaust system. ($175)

New spring shackles. ($80)

New shocks ($60)

(Or aftermarket suspension kit with about a 1.5" lift with all springs, bushings and shocks $500)

New tires ($580)

New wheels ($250)

11" brake kit ($600)http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id2_ ... linder.htm

Dual Master cylinder kit ($150)http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id2_ ... linder.htm

New brake lines ($75)

New seat covers ($160)

New top. ($700 aftermarket) ($800 military new)http://www.odcloth.com/m38.html

Carb overhaul (About $175) http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/HTML/sitemap.htm

Fuel pump overhauled exchanged (About $80) http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_ ... motive.htm
(You can switch to a single action pump with starner if you are going to run electric wipers)


Some others to consider:
Steering upgrade to a behind the radiator revers rotation Ford manual steering. ($175 + gearbox) http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id83.htm

New 12 volt civvy electrical harness.

You can go here and compare a CJ3A harness set up for 12 volt, one wire alternator, and turn signals compared to the stock M38 harnes with turn signals and modified for 1 wire 12 volt. ($ ??)
http://www.vintagewiringofmaine.com/cjcat.htm

Or you can go here for the one I like is the universal 20 circuit unit: ($643)
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=10142
Or this 12 circuit unit. ($496)
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=10105

You will need a turn signal switch as well and the Signal Stat 900 series is fine.

I'll through out more as I think of them.

For parts availability there are a bunch of suppliers on the net,

here's a few for pricing ideas that I have used and would recommend;

http://www.walcks4wd.com/

http://www.thejeep.com/

http://www.jeepdoc.com/

I'd keep the rims but replace tires if they are cracked or dry rotted
http://www.universaltire.com/cart.php?t ... ory_id=343
here's a supplier that I used.

Keeping in mind the intended use of the vehicle as a daily driver that looks close from a distance then as I suggested above the suspension needs to be upgraded for better all around traction and better ride/handling characteristics. The original 16" rims are only 4.5" wide. This is too narrow a rim for use of the later radial tires which prefer 6" or wider. Also the 15" tires give you more meat and a nicer ride.