Pitman alignment marks missing - what problems can I expect?

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:52 pm

This is kinda a tricky one...

I did my best to center my steering box sector and worm and intall the pitman arm pointing down while the tires were pointed forward. I didn't have any alignment marks on pitman and box didn't have a pitman on it when I found it so I couldn't mark it.

My question is what would happen if the wheels are pointed forward, but sector and worm are not exactly centered mid way through the steering wheel revolutions?

I have a pulse in the steering system and steering wheel is pulled from my hand very slightly on every revolution of the tires. It only started after I replaced the ross box. My steering system is tight otherwise and I didn't have this problem before.

Thanks for your help.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:21 pm

Sounds like one of two things. Either your off on the centering of the pitman arm on the shaft or you have one front wheel with more tow-out than the other.

Toe is set staring with the bellcrank which must have it's tie rod connecting arm at 90 degrees to the centerline of the front axle assembly. (Best to disconnect the bell crank from the draglink for this)

Then check each front wheel for straight ahead using a long straight edge across the sides of both the front and rear tires. Adjust the left tie rod to get the left tire straight ahead and then the right tie rod to get the right tire straight ahead. Verify both front tires are dead nuts on straight ahead and the bellcrank tie rod arm is 90 degrees to the axle center line. Now adjust or set the toe in by shortening each tie rod by 1/2 turn.

Now turn the steering wheel full to one side. Then full to the other side while counting the turns. Then bring the wheel to the center by turning it exactly half the full number of turns. The draglink socket should now align with the bellcrank arm ball. If not your pitman arm is off center and will need to be adjusted.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:26 pm

Thanks Wes.

I adjusted the pitman as you decribed. Excellent tip for adjusting the tow. I'll start from scratch using your method.

Thanks again.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:29 pm

Alignment procedures are always best performed with the front wheels setting on a pair of greased metal sheet sets about 18" square. You grease the space between one pair of sheets and set them under one front tire then do the same with another pair of sheets and put them under the other front tire. The linkage and the tire respond better to the lack of resistance to movement the plates give.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:29 pm

I used Wes' method today and it worked. No more death shimmy.

I did notice when I checked my steering for slop the springs and shackles were the only thing that moved when my dad turned the wheel back and forth. The PO gave it a 2" lift with longer after market shackles and bushings that seems to have slop.

Did the originals have some slop?

Thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:11 pm

Not much when new.

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 8:25 am

If you have shackle slop, new bushings may sort that. Hopefully you have the shackles that also have a brace between the two vertical pieces. Some cheap lift shackles are just long pieces of flat stock and will sway.
There is also a bronze bushing through the other end of the spring eye for the bolt. The bushings wear and new ones can be purchased and pressed into place.

Tom

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 4:43 pm

Yes, it has those cheap flat shackles.

I have a set of original m38a1 springs with shackles. I was going to run the aftermarket springs until I have a chance to recondition the originals. I wonder if I could use the original shackles with the aftermarket springs for now?

Thanks again for all the help.

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 5:02 pm

You will have to check bolt and bushing sizes to be assured that the originals will fit. They probably will.
What aftermarket springs were on the jeep? High arch lift?

Tom

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:32 pm

The springs looks like stock as far as the arch. Seems like the lift is done with long shackles. Kinda makes sense it has play given it has those long cheap shackles.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:15 pm

I take back some of what I said.

Tonight I took a hard turn, came out and the death shake started again. I still think I fixed part of the problem because I used to get the shakes driving straight and that seems to be gone. I'm thinking these crappy shackles are causing the problem. When I came out of the turn it started bending the shackles side to side and that triggered it.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:38 am

I found some original springs and shackles. I installed the fronts this weekend and took it for a spin. Took the turn like before and no death wobble this time. The stock springs and shackles are way stiffer as far as twist is concerned and shackle play is almost zero.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:07 pm

I'm a happy camper!

Put the original rear leafs on and my buddy and I took turns driving the jeep for 15 minutes and no death wobble at all. Took some sketchy turns to where I thought the tires were going to come off and still no death wobble.

To be honest the jeep also looks a whole lot better at the new height with the stock springs and shackles.

Resolving this issue was quite difficult and I would like to thank everyone who helped out especially Wes for explaining how to do the alignment.

Dave

Post by **wesk** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:13 pm

Dave,
Your welcome and I am just happy to see you are on the road.