willysmjeeps.com

Anyone ever convert one over?

There aren't any electronic ignition systems available for the L & F-134's. True electronic systems have breakerless distributors and a few sensors and a computer brain.

There is a Breakerless distributor setup available which uses a Hall Effect system to trigger the coil instead of the points. There is an off the shelf civilian 12 volt setup. But for 24 volt systems your only choice is the M151 late breakerless distributor. You can use the parts for it to convert your AutoLite distributor to breakerless. One of our members has already put a show it all presentation together for you. There are two different versions of the breakerless M151 distributor. One is harder to find and easier to use. The other is easier to find and harder to use.


Here's the late M151 distributor.


This is the easier to find and harder to use one. This is the one in our web sites photo album.


This is the harder to find and easier to use one.

m series rebuild now makes a kit

http://www.mseriesrebuild.com/services.htm

ELECTRICAL
■NOW AVAILABLE; 24-VOLT ALL ELECTRONIC INGNITION MODULES


■Our line of 24-volt electronic ignition modules is now expanded to cover both 4 and 6 cylinder military distributors. This covers all Jeeps & trucks with military standard waterproof distributors.
■We also stock 6 &12 volt electronic ignition modules for early series non-waterproof distributors. All modules carry a 30-month manufacturer's warranty. 24-volt units are $155.00 each + $12.00 shipping & insurance. Cost is slightly higher on 6 & 12 volt units depending on the model. See Photo.

Thanks for the tip Bill. Has anyone had a chance to run one of their distributors yet?

I did the conversion two years ago with the module from a M151 , everything still works fine without any maintenenance.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... electronic

that is exact build in position :




wiring ( this is a M151 distributor, same wiringcolor)

hmm, is the Prestolite Kit a straight drop in for an M38 / M38A1 distributor application or will the stator plate still require flipping and manipulating for fit and notched for proper timing adjustment.

Just to clarify, Per your diagram Wes, it appears that the Prestolite conversion kit utilizes the "stock" rotor?

Is the Prestolite version considered an early or a late M151 (rather M151A2) conversion kit

Any have experience using this conversion as opposed to the "Swiss Kit"

Yes it 's a standard rotor. As I said above the Prestolite is early and the Swiss is late. And as I said above the Prestolite is the easy swap but hardest to find. I've only found one in the last 5 years. Keep in mind that the M151 distributor rotates the opposite from the M38/M38A1 distributor.

the reason I ask, I'm pretty sure I have a "Prestolite" kit, but I need to verify that indeed it is the kit you have pictured. I wish to attempt this conversion though there seems to be no data for swapping and installing this specific unit into an M38/38A1 distributor. Maeserik's contribution of the "Swiss" unit install procedure is all I can find.

That's the only one I know of. I know I have heard of someone on one of these boards having done it.

In my second photo the Prestolite side of the page is covered by the Swiss unit parts and I forgot to point out in the third photo that left side is Presto and Right side is Swiss.

If I recall several years back when more of the Presto units were around one of the vendors use to support and demo this swap. Try emailing Baxter, Bizal, DeBella and Mullin to see if it was one of them.

guis are better the electronic ignition or the original one?
my A1 is fitted with original stuff from long time and never have a problem..

I was tired replacing condensors, every 3 months they went bad. Also after replacing the coil, contacts... tried concensors from walcks, midwest and others.

Since the swiss module is in, no complains anymore, works still two years and i once left the ignitionswitch on for a few hours, no hot coil, and no damaged module. I think there is a electronic security build in . This was a cheap solution, there are many M151 parts vendors.

Propably i could not find good condensors at thet moment. Maybe one from a M201 could also work. But for me it was a good modification, not vissible at the outside. Engine performance is the same i thinck, mayby easyer start ( bigger spark ? ).

Erik

I'm using same Pertronix Ignitor than Bill F.

Works fine, and if for some reason it fails, I have just to replace it for the pointer + condensor (on field).

Luciano

I can remove the module, and put the orignal disc with contacts and condensor again in, just 10 minutes work

Erik

Digging up an old thread here.

I just finished the M151 ignition conversion today. Pretty easy to do. Takes about 30 minutes not counting remove/install times. The instructions say that you need to cut a notch in the rotor - I didn't and she fired right up and idled smoothly first time!

I was in the process of adjusting the timing when I realized my Pos(+) battery cable was heating up at the starter connection. I quickly disconnected the battery cable to prevent a meltdown. I'll be searching for an answer to that problem shortly.

I also recorded a video of the steps involved which I will be putting up on Youtube shortly. Nothing even remotely professional - maybe somebody will be able to get something out of it.

The early M151 pointless kit comes with a simple rotor that looks just like the M38 and M38A1 original rotor. It doesn't need a notch. The later M151 pointless systems rotor is the umbrello type and the notch is to improve the spark timing and make it a bit more accurate since the position of the breaks in the skirt of this rotor vs the hall effect sensor determine when exactly you get the spark. These rotors had windows designed to function with the M151's opposite rotation. Yep she'll run without making the corrections in the skirt window but she'll run better if you do.