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I finally got into the garage again after removing the rear axle drive flanges in this m38a-1. Learned another very valuable lesson right off the bat......when cleaning up the tapered axle be very mindful of the edges of the key-way....they're razor sharp and WILL cut you. Several paper towels and a handful of bandaids later I succeeded in getting the axle pulled. A lot of work later and the axle and the bearing cone were seperated. I would furshure agree with Mr. K.....its definitely an interference fit. Once I got everything apart I threw it all into the solvent bath and started inspecting. I sure wish bearings had dates on them......the way my cone and axle were married up you'd think it had been put there by Moses. I think repacking and reinstalling are out of the question. Here's the cone and cup from the short axle side...

the scaling and flaking are horrible. These will definitely get replaced.

Also, judging by the amount of grease that was packed down the axle tube past the oil seal I'd say that folks have been way overusing the grease zerk located behind the brake backing plate. I may just replace this zerk with a plug if I can find one. Finally.....my axle looks to be in fairly good shape. There is a little rust but mostly the culprit in my case is a gritty sand that seems to somehow have gotten into everything. There is however some scaling in the area where the inside seal runs. Would it be worthwhile to take the axle to the machine shop and have them polish this scaling out for the sake of seal longevity? I love experience but at this point I'd do just about anything to insure I never have to do this procedure again.

I just finished doing the same job on my '51 M38 and I agree that it isn't the easiest job in the book. But it is a routine maintenance chore and if not done the axle could end up looking like yours - toast. Good thing your Jeep has you for a new owner! When replaced, my inboard oil seal did not contact the axle shaft - it was just a close fit. The outboard seal did contact the hub where it would be more important to have a good seal to prevent grease from getting into the brakes. I would think that you could clean up the axle shaft as best as possible and just make sure to not over grease and drive grease inboard.

Yes I am redoing my 1952 M38 while I have everthing apart might as well re do all my cone bearings , nice surprise is that all the bearings and seals very common and picked up at local auto supplier at surprising prices, in Canada

Same with me, last week I purchased all of the bearings and races for my '51 M38 rearend, it was about $220 dollars. That was from a local bearing shop, they were cheaper then NAPA or other part stores, its worth checking around. All made in the USA.