new guy fron western NC with 1955 M38A1

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tommy
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new guy fron western NC with 1955 M38A1

Post by tommy »

New guy here. Let me see if I can share some photos of my "new" 1955 M38A1...Image
Image
Image
The body is in good shape. There is some minor rust in the floors and in the RH rocker. The front half of the Rh fender is missing.The top is a Kelly all-steel cab, mfd in Charleston WV.The engine is stuck , but will turn a little by the fan. Obviously it is not the pistons stuck in the cylinders. It will turn approx 15 or 20 degrees, so I'm thinking the problem must be in the valvetrain area, don't you think? The back seat is intact. It has a rollbar.It also has manual hubs.I'm looking forward to digging into it.The first job will be to free up the engine and get it running. I'm sure I will spend a bit of time on here. I have not looked at all the pages on here yet , and have learned a lot already. God willing I will have some questions to ask, for sure.Thanks. :D
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Post by skyjeep50 »

Interesting looking Jeep! It appear you have the Marine Corps-type rear crossmember with the end tie down loops. Any other markings? Good luck with your project!
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Probably a stuck valve and most likely an exhaust valve.. I usually get a socket and breaker bar on the crank nut and work it back and forth until she breaks loose. If she doesn't want to free up pull the side valve cover and compress one spring at a time until you find which valve is stuck and then concentrate on that one.
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53a1
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Post by 53a1 »

Does it have a bunch of undercoating on the frame and underside of tub? If so it's probably a USMC Jeep. I have one also and mine was covered with the stuff. You may find hood numbers but read up on how to strip the paint to uncover the numbers as you can wipe them away if your not careful.

BTW: if you found one without tons of rust you are already ahead of the game.
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BullRun
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Post by BullRun »

The locking hubs might be a field modification often seen on USMC jeeps that were rebuilt in the late '50's or early '60's. Usually they are Super Winch brand. Not a definitive statement but an often repeated observation on USMC M38A1's on the East Coast.
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Post by sonny »

Tommy - welcome aboard - this is a great hobby and this site in absolutely invaluable for knowledge and help. Have been here only 6 or 7 months and I log on every day - have learned a ton of stuff from these guys - Sonny
1951 M38, 1952 M38, 1952 M100,1946 Bantam T3-C, RT-66/GRC, PP-112/GR, MT-299, DT-44 Mine Detector, MVPA # 33068, PMVPA CO
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Post by BullRun »

You might want to take off your differential covers front and back and check to see if you have locking differentials retrofitted in there.

Some M38A1 USMC jeeps had them installed during rebuilds in the late 1950's and early 1960's.

If it is USMC it will be a Powr-Loc locking differential. A compact cylinder shaped lump of machined metal will be in the center of the differential mechanism if it has one. A regular differential will be just that... regular looking.

The jeep may or may not have them. If they are in the front they make a clicking noise when you make a slow speed turn.

If they are there the jeep becomes nearly unstoppable.
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53a1
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Post by 53a1 »

Also, make sure you have a plan before you start pulling it apart. I'm in the middle of my first frame-up resto and it's a lot of work, money and tools but it's great fun if your into fixing up old stuff.
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Post by wesk »

The USMC posi's had a tag on the cover bolt with a letter "T" or "Use Limited Slip Diff. Lube Only". Also you can just jack one wheel off the floor and turn it. If it won't turn it's a posi or locker and if it turns (it will rotate the drive shaft) then it's a conventional diff.
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Post by tommy »

Upon closer inspection I found that I was not turning the engine by the fan as I thought.The crank pulley is moving on the shaft, which is a problem . So the pistons may be stuck after all. The air cleaner and all related parts are intact , as well as the oil cap and related parts , so maybe the cylinders have not been filled with water. I will try to "unstick" the engine as soon as I get it home.The jeep may be an organ donor if the engine is ruined.
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Post by BullRun »

Unless you have obvious engine damage like a crack or a chunk of metal missing from the side of the block... don't give up just yet.

The crank pulley might just be loose, not damaged.

This all sounds pretty normal for a non-running jeep engine.

Are the expansion plugs still in the block? Does the radiator fluid have oil streaks? Does the crank case oil have lumps or streaks of whitish fluid mixed in the oil? Are there any rebuild tags?

There is a school of thought that seized pistons is a good sign on non-runners as it implies that there is minimal cylinder wear allowing condensation to seize the rings. It could be a low mileage engine in the end.

You might have to soak the rings for a few days or weeks or longer with something like PB Blaster, diesel fluid or automatic transmission fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc... before they break loose. Fairly normal for an engine that has not been used for many years.

I would just assume the engine needs rebuilt, considering the overall condition of the jeep, and budget your time and money accordingly. When you pull the engine leave it together till right before the machine shop work and it will save yourself from many headaches like warped cranks, lost parts, etc.

Even if your engine ran well and the jeep could be driven the engine might still have significant wear and need a rebuild. The reliability gained by a rebuild when driving in modern traffic is worth the expense and effort.

If you get the pistons loose you can give the engine a leak-down test without it running to get a general idea of what kind of wear the engine has inside.

These engines do not really wear out in the conventional sense. They are designed to last "forever". I am sure there are other opinions on this stuff. I would use them all.
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Post by Jeeps4Brains »

I had one engine that was stuck. When I took the head off there was not too much rust, just enough to keep it from moving.

A few cans of PB blaster and checking it each day for two weeks it finally started moving.

Little by little I kept moving it back and forth and once I got one complete turn of the crank it freed up.

It still needed to be rebuilt but I knew I could save it.
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Post by wesk »

Unsticking a long sitting engine is fun and it is nice to hear it run but 50 years of mechanical experience has taught me that once they sit long enough to freeze up there will always be issues you will fail to address by ignoring the need for a tear down and proper inspection. It's a simple case of "pay me now or pay me later".

Cylinder wear has little to do with an engine sticking from sitting. Young and old bores will both rust and rings both loose and tight will stick to the pistons and the cylinder walls. Rust means pitting and pitting means leaking. Count on the majority of "beat em to free em" engines burning oil. Breaking rings loose mechanically usually results in broken rings and broken ring lands on the pistons. These engines will run for a while with these broken parts but the detached parts do irreparable damage to the cylinder walls. The occasional bent rods result in serious catastrophic type failures later on.

The valve train suffers from sitting idle for years. Mostly rust and the pitting of the cam followers usually results in a rapid wearing away of the hard face surface of the cam lobes and the loss of valve lift on that lobe.

Invariably the "pay me now or pay me later" actually means "pay a little now or a lot later".

If you have rebuilt an engine before can you dare think about tackling it now?

Well if you know what tools you would need. If you can learn to use them properly. If you take the time to read first and act second. If you just fork out the few bucks for the book now. You can do a decent rebuild on your own with a little help from the auto-machine shop.

The Army service manual and the civvy factory manuals assume the reader is a proficient mechanic. So if you are not a proficient mechanic then it stands to reason that these books are not going to get the job done. Try getting a quality rebuild guide like Moses Ludel's "Jeep CJ 1946-71 Rebuilder's Manual" This will fill in the knowlege gaps left by the standard professional service manuals.

Finally, don't be shy. There is nothing wrong when asking for help when you have already demonstrated a honest desire to help yourself and there are no dumb questions. :wink:
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Post by tommy »

Thanks wesk. The thing that would hinder me most in doing what needs to be done is the cost. I would not hesitate to tear into the engine or the other components of my Jeep as needed. I have been working on vehicles and other things mecanical for 30+ years.The only other problem would be special tools needed for some jobs , which again goes back to the cost of owning them. With this Jeep I have very little invested so far , so I feel like I could recover my investment if I were to decide to resale it or even part it out , although I would hate to see it busted up for parts. I can make the decision whether to proceed or not in the next few weeks as time (and weather) permits. I plan to keep watching this site for guidance as I go or at least watching what others on here are doing.Thanks again. :)
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Post by tommy »

Today I took the plugs out and divided a can of PB blaster between the cylinders. I also went to visit the last owner that drove the Jeep. I recognized him once I saw his face. He and I worked at different auto parts stores in town a few years back. He also operated a Gulf station near here. He said that he owned the Jeep because he enjoyed coon hunting.That's why he put in the tailgate, which he bought for $2.00. He also said that he completely rebuilt the engine , which was in very good shape before the rebuild . The Jeep was only driven twice or possibly three times after being rebuilt because he had back problems and could no longer hunt.He also "went through" the transmission, transfer case, and both differentials replacing bearings and seals. The starter and alternator were rebuilt also. He ask me to allow him a week or two and come back and he will give me some spare parts he has stored . I'm encouraged by what I heard and am glad I looked him up. :D
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