willysmjeeps.com

Hello Gents!

Quite a while since I last posted; hope all are doing great.

Question related to 24v regulator options... Do you use the original regulators, or have switched to the electronic (sealed) regulators?

What are the pros and cons of each unit?

What type of maintenance do the original (Autolite 7524309) require? Are they pretty much solid, or do they required periodic adjustment?

Who fixes these original units? I ask, since I have 2 of the original units, and I'm yet to decide wether to use the originals (if good) or go to the newer model. My rebuild is motor-pool type, not museum.

Thanks, as always!

Jorge

The mechanical 24V 25A regulator (Delco or Auto-Lite) has parts and technical data available, is adjustable and rebuildable and is cheaper than the transistorized units.

The transistorized 24V 25A (Vap Air and Motorola) units are much more expensive, have no available repair/adjustment data and thus are a throw away unit if they fail.

The fact that so many mechanical regulator equipped jeeps are still functioning well with over 50 years of service on them speaks for the mechanical units robustness. Most cases of malfunctioning mechanical units can be traced to dirty or sticky contacts and are easily cleaned, adjusted if needed and returned to service.

Thanks, Wes!

Do you know where I can find repair parts for these these units?

Also, can these units be bench tested? where can I find this info?

Thanks for the prompt response, as always.

Jorge

Your auto electric shops should have access to the necessary parts. These regulators saw a civilian use for years in heavy trucks and emergency vehicles. The tuff things to find like the waterproof base and connectors and radio noise capacitors peculiar to the miltary units still pop up at dealers and Ebay.

If you check with Ron Fitzpatrick I think he has a local rebuilder doing them for him.

All the data you need for the Auto-lite is on our download page. The Delco info I have loaded is from the civilian manuals.That's the necessary exerpts from TM 9-1825B 1952.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... =Downloads

Auto-Lite: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/downloads/R ... stment.pdf

Delco: http://willysmjeeps.com/downloads/Delco.reg.pdf

Don't let the early non-waterproof illustrations fool you. The tech writer felt the older non-waterproof versions were adequate for illustrations.

I noticed in Joel Gopan's reply to your G503 post that he first touts the transistor unit then warns of their shortcomings. The problem I have with vendor sales of the later transistorized units is they do not stand behind electrical components. If you buy a used or rebuilt mechanical regulator for $25 used to $150 new and you get a faulty unit you can repair it yourself. If you get a junk transistorized unit you are stuck with it. Surplus stocks of the transistorized units that were discontinued in the 1980's/early 90's that have reached the vendors shelves over the years are a mixed batch of those with very old shelf lives, repaired units, new units and bad units returned to the supply system.

No expert on regulators but in general I know solid state stuff goes bad over time. Capacitors also have a finite life and are probably used in the transistor based regulators as well. I would think over the long term relay based regulators would be better.

Question.... I have retouched the paint for the Regulator base and cover with flat black.

I plan on coating with clear, but is the clear coat flat or gloss?

Thanks,

Jorge

Jorge,
Most of the underhood blacks had a satin finish like GM chassis black.

Excellent!

Thanks so much, Wes! Now, to tackle the Regulator, Generator, Starter and Oil Cleaner finish then.

Gotta find me someone locally that does bench tests for the Generator and Regulators...