fender question

idiocrates · Post by **idiocrates** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:38 pm

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/22032 ... .jpg[/img]
right_fender_nose by idiocrates, on Flickr[/url]
hope this works..........has anyone ever repaired a fender nose by cutting off the damaged part and welding on a new one? Can it be done? And if it can does anybody have a sacrificial fender they'd care to part with? Like maybe one that has a totally wasted end where it attaches to the tub......

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:42 pm

I was thinking of doing the same thing. I would say just use a cut off wheel and stitch weld the new metal on, grind, hammer, bondo. Shouldn't be a big deal.

Why not pound out the one you got and use some bondo?

idiocrates · Post by **idiocrates** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:48 pm

That's what I had planned but I suspect finding a "donor" is going to be the biggest problem. Will just have to keep my eyes open.....so if you have a right fender laying around loose, you might want to stick it behind a bush or sumptin.....I'm on a mission.

BullRun · Post by **BullRun** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:28 pm

This is actually a fairly simple fix though it will take a lot of elbow grease. Cutting it out and welding in a new piece will not be very cost effective and I think a more tedious repair. Getting the correct registration between old and new will be very difficult. The biggest headache will be fixing the rust at the bottom. There are a lot of internal stresses built into the part from the way it is manufactured that causes the easy crumpling and cracking in this part which is good to keep in mind while fixing it.

Use a bottle jack rested on the tire and some short lengths of 2x4 or 2x3 to gently push out the dent and a hammer and dolly to gently tap in the exterior crease. Work the big dents either side into smaller and smaller dents. If possible work on a smooth surface so you can take measurements from the floor from the other side if it is not dented to compare too. You'll have to eyeball it a lot to get it perfect. You may have to shrink the metal in some spots too but this is easy with a plumbers propane torch. Keep a wet rag on hand to cool the metal and go slow and steady. Don't overheat it. Cut out the rust and weld in a patch of 18 ga. mild steel with an argon shielded MIG welder if possible. This is anywhere from 1 day to week of work depending on someones skills. Check for cracks where the grill and fender join together and along the bottom edge.

When you have it correct the metal will very oddly go back into the original shape in which it was stamped. This effect is hard to describe but you will notice it after it happens. This is the "memory" in the metal part from the press operations when the part was made. Use a slight amount of Bondo if needed and it will look new.

idiocrates · Post by **idiocrates** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:34 pm

Thanks for the detailed reply. I may have over-simplified my problem by using the picture that I did. Here's what I'm really trying to avoid having to mess with.......
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/22032 ... .jpg[/img]
right_fender_nose2 by idiocrates, on Flickr[/url]
I just thought I could better show my plan on the previous picture...but this fender may be too far gone cause it has several other places where it has rusted thru on the rear......a split along the grill......and another brazed spot on top in the area of the breather pipe cut-out.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:43 pm

That looks familiar. Mine had a couple repairs like that with lots of Bondo on top. Definitely you will have to replace that metal. Why not get a CJ fender as a doner?

Post by **wesk** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:54 pm

Early CJ5 fenders are not that easy to find either. If you are forced to fabricate a new piece then you will benefit a great deal with access to an English wheel and/or a good quality shrinker/stretcher.

I still think with a lot of patience and a little professional experienced help you can follow BullRun's lead and salvage what is there.

BullRun · Post by **BullRun** » Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:32 am

Ouch! That really does need some work!

The brazed areas are going to be a real pain to fix because of the dissimilar metals involved so conventional repair as I described will not work very well.

I would say you have two choices at this point as you stated. 1) a replacement fender or 2) a repair. Omix-Ada has replacement fenders that look pretty good but if you have the early fender with the seam, repair may be your only answer if you want to have matching fenders.

To fix this just cut out all this brazed metal with dents and patch in a hand formed piece formed over a pipe, piece of wood etc. whatever will give you the correct shape. A section of metal this crumpled is generally not worth fixing if it can be repaired with a new piece of metal welded in place. This can be little pieces too and not just 1 giant patch. Whatever will work to fix it is correct. Use a plastic or rubber faced hammer to help if needed. And, mig weld the cracks last after the fender is pushed and pulled back into shape. Another method would be to cut slots about an inch apart with a cut-off wheel or jigsaw top to bottom along the dents like the crack and hammer and dolly the shape back into place and grind off the high spots of brazed material. Then mig weld it all back together again. Check the body line edge for straightness by using a carpenters square. It does get complicated.

My description is simplified but I think this can be fixed. It will be very labor intensive but also a great learning experience. If it works great if not you can still get a new fender. Hope that helps.