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Guys, I've got a 1963 M38a1 with M416a1 Trailer. I'm going to restore both. I'm assuming that the correct USMC color would be Gellespie 24052 Forest Green semi-gloss and not 34709 Lusterless Forest green? I've read some places that either is correct depending on where the M38a1 was used. I just need a straight answer. If someone could help, I'd appreciate it.

On an interesting side note, when trying to get the engine to start, I figured out (thanks to this site) that someone had replaced the distributor with one from a M151 and didn't clock the hall sensor.

I am sure there were quite a few in lusterless Forest Green but I would stick with semi-gloss. Much nicer looking, less maintenance and holds up for years longer.

Good luck with your restoration and please use our photo album pages to document your resto. You have a very late model A1 and there were many differences on them including the air cleaner, the passenger seat hold down, the gage cluster and more. The Marines also added some goodies.

Here's your photo album link:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Thanks for the help. I assume the lusterless tends to suck up dirt and mud? I'll get some pictures up soon.

Also stains very easily. Consider it just like driving a vehicle with only gray sandable primer on it.

Before you toss your M151 distributer it may be original to the vehicle. On my '62 USMC M38A1 it has what an M151 jeep friend identified as an early M151 distributer and a whole bunch of other M151 parts that are original to these very late Marine M38A1's. In my experience with my vehicle what looks non-original or a fix is probably how it was made if it is still close to stock.

I have read somewhere that only around 2000 of these jeeps were built so they are pretty rare. Probably the most capable jeep Willys ever made.

I think mine is 34052 the dull Marine Corp green OD. I have seen semigloss and even a full gloss on a USMC military parade vehicle.

The dull OD will pick up dirt, not clean very well and chalk after awhile but you will blend into the woods very well.

The very late M38A1's (65-68) were too early for the transistorized ignition system used on the M151A1 in the 70's. Many were converted in the field years later. The norm was to buy surplus M151 transistorized ignition kits and install them in the M38A1 distributor. This began happening in the 80's as more and more M151 ignition systems showed up on the surplus block.

The M151 distributors rotate opposite to the M38A1 and must be re-indexed to use them on the M38A1. Also the M151 distributor drive is a lot shorter than the M38A1's.


M151 distributor at top and M38A1 at bottom.


This is the late Swiss Controls M151A1 transistorized kit. To install it in the M38A1 distributor requires re-indexing both the base and the rotor.


Here you see the first M151A1 transistorized setup from Prestolite on the left and the newer Swiss controls on the right. The Prestolite system is easier to adapt to the M38A1 distributor but they are extremely rare to find the last few years.

Maybe it is the housing on my distributer that is unique not the internals but when my friend looked at my jeep he was shocked to see so many early M151 parts. What really disappointed him was the generator being replaced by someone in the government with an alternator, as according to him the particular generator used on my jeep was an even more rare M151 style than some of the other unusual parts.

I scratched my head for a while and then did a little reading around here back when I first got the Jeep. Got my Dremel out, cut a new notch inside the housing, rotated part #10 in the diagram 90 degress and poured some gas in the carb. Next thing you know, she's up and running. I've got the Swiss control above.

Finally got some pics up. I'm gonna get the tank painted this weekend (patched it up with that super duper aircraft tank patch) and try to get her running again. Picked up an oil filter today and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. If I happen by ye olde Harbor Freight, I'm gonna grab a compression check kit on the cheap and an engine hoist (Yay! SuperCoupons!). At least I'll know what to do with my engine. It looks like it's never been rebuilt. I'm guessing a valve and a ring job is probably a good idea.

While at HF get a vacuum guage also. They are actually pretty nice for the price and the manifold adapter is included.

53a1 wrote:While at HF get a vacuum guage also. They are actually pretty nice for the price and the manifold adapapter is included.

Done got one, but thanks! May have to borrow the compression gauges from the Father n Law.

Any reccomendations on how to flush the fuel lines before I start this thing up? The last time I ran it, I just poured gas in the carb to make it fire. The pump was pumping. I the fuel line disconnected from the carb because I figured it was full of nastiness. I was right. It pumped some rusty gas out into a container.

On your pic asking what these brackets are for, if there are 3 or 4 holes towards the bottom of the body directly below the half round one there would have been a antenna mast there it held the UHF antenna for the MRC FAC system or just A UHF radio. Scott out

What size plugs do I need to plug the heater hose openings? Someone has installe an aftermarket heater and I'm going to yank it.

Do you want to sell the heater? I am putting together a Jeep and wouldn't mind having a heater. If so, how much do you want for it? I'd be interested in all of the parts to make it work. I'll send you a PM.

Dave