M100

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:46 am

I've had this M100 for a couple of years. Bought from someone who matched it to his Jeep (yellow paint, AR Baja wheels, and BFG MTRs). Lunette, casting, leg, data plates were gone. Lights and reflectors are all aftermarket.

I've been using it the way I received for the last couple of years to haul camping gear, and finally decided to fix it up and make it my own. First thing on the list was to ditch the yellow paint and search for identifying numbers. None were found. Apparently the trailer had been sandblasted before being painted by the PO. I also can't remove the spring hanger without a lot of grinding, as it's got something welded to it for reinforcement.

Here it is after it's first coat of paint. I'm just using rattle cans of Rustoleum's Camo series, Deep Forest Green. It's actually coming out better than I had expected.

I'm not going to go for a total restoration, since the lunette's already gone. That's just more money and time than I'm able to put into it. I would like to at least get the proper wheels and tires, or something close. I will NOT be cutting a tailgate into it, or any other major changes. For now, it works great for me and my purposes

GPA · Post by **GPA** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:38 am

It looks a lot better on the picture than in your description. Good job!

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 1:23 pm

It was in really great shape when I bought it. A bit of surface rust, but nothing major. Drain springs were rusted out, but I just got some good replacements from someone on another forum.

Here's an example of the surface rust, and a view of the piece the PO welded to the spring hanger/gusset. I think it might actually be a piece of the casting he removed?

Still need to find a license plate mount that will working under the light, and a way to mount a spare (once I fing three wheels!). I'm thinking I might just put it on the back, using a CJ3 bracket. Originally I didn't like the way the looked, but I think it will follow the arc of the PVC bows I just made and be OK. The weight will balance out by a water tank that will go in the front.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 3:31 pm

The spare looks very good when it can't be seen at all.

Just pick up a small pickup truck under the frame spare tire hoist at the junk yard and install it under your bed.

Can you email me an actual completed copy of the M100 survey form I emailed you the other day. You sent me a blank copy. Is Kristina the correct name to use?

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:49 pm

I'd thought about putting the spare underneath, but wasn't sure I wanted to give up the ground clearance.

Did I really send back a blank?? LOL sorry about that! I'll send another when I'm home tonight, altho many of the questions will still be unknowns.

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:57 pm

OK survey sent again, Wes. I still had it here in my email. I'm afraid I can't help with your database much, as I've been unable to find any numbers on this trailer. Everything was stripped prior to my purchase, and as you can see in the above picture, the spring hanger has been welded to the gusset so that I can't look for a number underneath w/o grinding.

m38olddog · Post by **m38olddog** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:27 pm

That looks REALLY great ! You did that with rattle cans? Wow!
Wish my old yellow M100 could someday look half that good.

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:26 am

Thanks! Yep, that was good 'ol Rust-oleum. I've never painted anything larger than a kid's bike, but I think I did pretty good.

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:36 am

While waiting for the weather to dry up so I can do the next coat of paint, I went ahead and ordered parts for bearings and seals. I've never done that before, but think I can manage looking at the manual. Only thing that concerns me is the tool. Is that really necessary and if so, where can I get one? Or is it one of those things I can borrow from the parts store?

Post by **wesk** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 10:09 pm

Hello Kristina,

Are you referring to the axle nut socket wrench?

You can purchase these right at your local auto parts store.

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Fri Oct 08, 2010 11:30 am

No, I ordered one of those along with the bearings and seals. But was wondering if I need some sort of bearing puller or seat tool? Looking at the manual, Figure 4-4, Installing bearing cup with remover and replacer and remover and replacer screw. Or can it be done w/o that?

Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:09 pm

Bearing race (or cup) remover installers are nice but can cost a bit. I've always used a large round brass punch to knock them each out from the opposite side. You keep tapping back and forth and side to side on the rear edge of the race so it moves out of the hub evenly. Then a piece of round steel pipe or stock just a tad smaller then the diameter of the hub opening is used with a hammer to install the new race (cup). In some cases I'll just reverse the old race (cup) and use it to hammer on to get the new one started in square.

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:10 am

Thank you, Wes. I thinking I might be able to do it like that, but wanted to be sure

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:07 pm

New treated canvas tarp arrived today to go over the PVC bows I made. Boy does it ever stink!!! I couldn't even stand touching it for a test fit. It's airing in the garage now

Errant · Post by **Errant** » Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:15 pm

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of cable box? I've got the brackets, and haven't decided it I want to splurge on the replica box yet. I'm going to mount the propane on the front, but want to make sure I leave enough room for the box, just in case.