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DUMPED THE BREAK-IN OIL INTO MY FRESH MOTOR-
GUESS WHAT-A LEAK BETWEEN THE OILPAN AND THE
SKID PLATE->*^$%#@*!! I KNOW THE PANS GOTTA
COME BACK OFF FOR REPAIR>*&^$%#@. WHAT TO
DO ?? MELT SOME BRASS?? NO MAGIC BULLET RIGHT??
HELP!!

I fixed mine like this:
1. duct tape a shop vac to the oil fill tube
2. close the fording valves so the crankcase holds the vacuum
3. locate the leaks areas with brake cleaner---the fluid will suck in and clean the passage
4. Get a can of Permatex liquid form-a-gasket
5. with vacuum applied--put the permatex in the leak area--it will be sucked in--continue to apply and unplug the vacuum--the sealer will continue to be pulled in until the vacuum drops off---done
This is a FAA approved repair for certian fuel leaks on airplanes and I did it many times--and works on oil leaks in jeeps.

I would like to see that FAA approval. Are you sure it was for Permatex gasket maker? It should have been for Pro-Seal which is an approved aircraft fuel system sealant as a fillet material for exterior panels and glass. . I've been working aircraft since the 60's and have been using Pro-Seal since the 60's as well. I'd recommend the Pro-Seal which can be had for less than $20 a ahort tube.

Wes,
I should have made that clear. I think we used PRC-1 thinned with a little MEK so it would suck in. Fellow jeep owners, don't use Permatex
to seal the fuel leaks on your Convair 580 or DC-9. Always check the maintenance manual for changes in practice or materials.

Thx guys-The leak (or leaks) is between the pan and the skid plate.
Can the brake fluid and pro seal find the leak if it needs to be pulled
between 2 close fitting surfaces??

Rick,
Are you saying that your oil pan is leaking without the engine running?
Just oil in the pan is leaking out the pan?

I originally thought you were saying that the rear main seal was leaking but it its just the pan you are in better shape.

If it is only the pan and not seals you might want to pull down the pan. Its not a big job and gaskets are only a few bucks in the off case yours gets damaged.

If your leak is caused by rust the permatex suck-in process may solve the symptom for a while but the rust problem will continue and you will have another leak at some time. If the problem is a spot weld tore sheet metal you can weld the tear and the problem is permanently solved.

Tom

That's right Tom, oil is dripping from the pan, not the seals.
When the motor was being built there was pitting on the interior
floor of the pan. The pan was chemically stripped then the suspect
areas were welded w/brass (braised??). Motor hasnt been run since rebuild but theres a drip,drip,drip originating somewhere between the
skid plate and the exterior pan floor.

Pull the pan, inspect the spot welds and if there are cracks, get em welded up. I don't get why they would braze it.
I'd get a tub of water big enough to hold the pan. Put the oil pan plug in place. Fill up tub with water and float the oil pan in it. Push the pan down into the water but dont dunk the rim. This will force water from the outside in into any crack or leak that you should be able to see. You could do this in your bathtub to, just clean the pan well or the Mrs will be after you.

Great idea bretto about "floating" the pan. the leak (or leaks)
would be pinpointed. Weekend's coming up, sounds like a welding
job is on my list. Thx again for all the input-you guys are the best..

RICKG wrote: suspect areas were welded w/brass (braised??).

"brazed", unless it was put in a skillet and cooked with liquid

I would think brazing would be adequate to repair leaking spots in an oil pan, it not being under any pressure. It's not as strong as welding, but I don't think strength is the issue. Brass is good about flowing into small holes and cracks.

-Jim

Hey bretto-I did like you suggested (sort of) and floated the pan in
the bathtub during my bubblebath last nite. The missus didnt even
blink-she just thought another carrier joined my bathtub battle group
Seriously tho-2 pinholes were evident immediately-easy fix, thx. rick

GREAT. What you going to do to get it fixed?

ive got 2 oilpans with the same problem. around the leaks there are
substantial areas of pitting making for some thin steel. my blacksmith
(can you believe these guys are still around??) thinks we could heat
the pans in the forge so the temps are consistent, then float in
molten brass-he's got several different types of brass/tin materials.
i'll keep you posted..

The forge and floating in brass sounds like way overkill. Heck, if it's just a couple of pinholes, and on the inside like you wrote above, you should be be able to just solder or braze them from the inside where you can get the metal nice and clean.
I think there might be more blacksmiths around now than 10 or 20 years ago. Around here, it is a growing hobby, one I want to try someday. I found a portable forge with blower, but I still need to find an anvil and add the assortment of hammers and tongs. There's something magical about being able to change the shape of steel with your own power.

after a lot of work and brass i've failed to plug the leak(s).
the pitting on the interior pan bottom has eroded so much
metal away that the heating process for brazing opens up
2 more pinholes or cracks for every hole filled..
i think i'll be posting under "wanted" for a new or used
(non leaking) oilpan. rick