setup for body while putting in a new floor

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:25 pm

Hello;

I and looking at putting a whole new floor into a M38 tub, and I was wondering what needs to be done to the body to keep it from twisting or warping. I would really appreciate pictures or diagrams please. It looks like I am going to need the entire front, back floor with riser, and possibly some sidewall. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. [/img]

Post by **wesk** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:40 pm

Basically you provide bracing of the tub diagonally and where need parallel and it is usually best to use a rotissorie to mount the tub for the work. Do one panel replacement at a time. The exact shape or location of bracing will depend on what you need to get your tub braced in a proper true square shape. You start with the tub sitting on a level floor and take measurements from like pooints at each end and sides of the tub to the opposite end or side of the tub and force the tub into a squared position.

http://www.frameoff.com/
http://www.1969supersport.com/jig01.html
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/jigs.htm

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 4:12 pm

thanks Wes. I really appreciate the advice as I am learning as I go. This and the G503 site have been great.

I understand from the other forum that you suggested bolting steel along the top of the jeep across the endgate, diagonal from the front dash to opposite corners, and then across the from drivers to passenger side at center (behind the seats I assume?) Do you not bring one from the middle front of dash to the back (to prevent sagging?)

The rotisserie looks great for painting (and I can see how it would keep things parralell, but you would be able to use for the floor installations, would you?)

Thanks again.

Myles

Post by **wesk** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:26 pm

There are no one answer fits all circumstances in jigging car bodies for metal replacement. If the side panels are in good shape they will not sag when the tub is in the rotisserie as long as they are cross braced. You can do some work with the tub on the floor but the need to see a different angle constantly makes flipping the tub around a lot of work. The rotisserie simplifies this immensely. The best jig for your tub is the jeep's frame. Put the frame in the rotisserie and then mount the tub with as mount locations as you can. Then by carefully measuring laterally, vertically and longitudinally all planes of the tub you slowing adjust it's position relative to the frame and install the needed braces to keep it there. If you have never done this before start looking for someone nearby that has. Contact your local MVPA chapter or better yet buy the roster.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:03 pm

I would use sheet metal self tapping screws to temporarily hold it while you test fit it to your frame. That includes the front fenders and the grill and hood. Look back to front and check for squareness. Look at the hood line down both fender tops. Use new rubber pads that you will finish with. I'd check your gas tank/seat fit also. If you have a repro tank, now is a good time to "make" it fit to your satisfaction. Check your hat channel holes to frame for fit, see if your steering and petals still fit. You can pre-punch your panels at locations you can get to ,to grind clean later and if the fit is good, weld those, remove the body, finish up, and then pull the screws and weld those holes. Patience pays big here!

John

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:25 pm

Thanks guys. The more I read, the more I understand the importance of the rotisserie and lots of prep work before one gets started. I am hoping to get a friend of mine to do the body work (who has experience), but I want to make sure I know what to do for my benefit. I can see that it is important to get someone who also knows what they are doing. I am grateful to you guys in here for knowledge here.