re: South Boston St Patrick's Day Parade

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:40 am

Sunday, 20 March, was the annual parade in South Boston. I had my jeep on its first extended drive in the parade and it performed fantastically! The only thing was that it's running rich. I'm not sure if it's just the fuel that was still in the tank (some left over from prior to my deployment overseas 2009-10) or if the carbuerator needs adjusting (most likely). I got a basic rebuild kit three years ago from AJP but may need to do it again. And adjust the fuel mixture as the jeep had a tendency to surge at times when running slowly in the parade.
All in all though it did very well. Now I also have too fix/replace one of the head lamps.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:47 pm

any pics?

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:22 pm

I posted a few on my gallery but I didn't get a chance to take too many. I'll add more as I get them. I had 23 y.o. twins (blonde and a red-head) hop in half way through so looking forward to those pics!
Looks like I need to replace my left headlamp. It appears to be all one assembly for that, no bulb insert. I just want to verify the size as a buddy of mine might have a spare pair of headlamps if they fit.

In the pics I posted there are two MB's, an M38A1, and my jeep. We also had a half-track and a DUKW behind us. Unfortunately I spent so much time driving and having a great time with the twins and "Rosie the Riveter" (who looked a lot like Sarah Palin) that I never did get my camera out.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:29 pm

If you are stock 24 volt M38 then the correct Douglas metal connector pigtailed lamps are: 4860

You can substitute 4863 which has a slightly different bulb illumination angle.

You can also use the civvy 4800 lamps but you'll need to adapt a three prong plastic plug to your three Douglass metal connectors.

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:32 pm

OK. Yes, stock 24 v M38. Is there an actual size measurement I can pass on as well? Thanks Wes!

Post by **wesk** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:35 pm

7 inch PAR 56

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:46 pm

Thanks!

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:06 pm

THE TWINS!! WE WANT PHOTOS OF THE TWINS!!

GIJOE290 · Post by **GIJOE290** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:04 pm

Nice pics! Looks like you were having a good time.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:58 pm

On the head light, I did not know there was a bulb with a different beam angle. I'll have to watch that when I go to buy another one.

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:07 am

I also found out last night that the high beam comes on but the low beam isn't working. Maybe it's a stupid question but are there two separate bulbs for that? Why would the high beam work and not the low beam?

More pics are posted.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:05 am

Modern sealed beam head lamps have the small bulb permanently sealed withing the large glass container. The bulb has two filaments that each have their own power in wire. One high beam and one low beam. Their grounded ends share the single ground wire, You should note three wires coming out of the lamp. Wire # 17 is high beam, #18 is low beam and #91 is ground.

You can easily with a test lamp or VOM check for power at 17 and 18 with the light switch on and while operating the dimmer switch. If you have power on both then the filament inside the lamp has failed or the ground wire is broken or loose/disconnected.

You can also check the lamp itself using the Ohm meter function of the VOM by checking for continuity from wire 17 to 91 and then wire 18 to 91. This is done with all power off and the three connectors on the lamp disconnected.

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:16 am

Thanks Wes, that's what I thought.
I checked for loose connections and everything is tight so I think it's the filament itself.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:52 am

$35 to $40 per bulb is a pretty good reason to use a meter or test lamp and make sure wire # 18 has power at both lamps.

RimfireJim · Post by **RimfireJim** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:36 pm

wesk wrote: You can easily with a test lamp or VOM check for power at 17 and 18 with the light switch on and while operating the dimmer switch. If you have power on both then the filament inside the lamp has failed or the ground wire is broken or loose/disconnected.

That usually works, but on at least one occasion I've seen voltage at the connector or socket for a lamp with a VOM, and had a good bulb verified by an independent test battery, but the bulb wouldn't light when connected. The cause of the failure was a poor connection which was capable of conducting enough current for the VOM (less than a milliamp) but not enough to power the bulb. That really stumped me the first time I encountered it!