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What are you guys doing for brake lines, not the hoses. I dont see it cost effective to buy pre made ones. The local autopart shops have straight ones in various lengths with fittings for a good price. My thoughts are to buy the next length longer than what is stock, cut the flare off back to stock length and rent their flaring tool to restore the end. Bend to the right shape and install. The only problem I see is hoping they have one long enough for the one from the master cylinder to the rear frame.
The other question I guess I have is about the flaring. Seems there are a few different types of flares out there. Will a single or double flare work with the other fittings (cylingders, hoses)?

Hey Brett, the brake line from mast cyl to rear is 2pc, coupled where
it turns 90 deg @ crossmember, so it's not as long as you may think.
At the mast cyl the bends are pretty tight where front and rear sections
meet the Y fitting..might be a tough bend.
I have 2 spare S lines for front brakes.. the fittings are sorta rounded
where someones used pliers on them-it you need 'em theyre yours,
just cover the postage..let me know. Rick

I dont think I remember that coupling on mine during the tear down, I will have to look when I get home. I was able to salvage my s-lines so I think they will work again, if i find they are buggered up, I will take you up on your offer.

NAPA sells steel brake line material in 25' coils... comes in 3/16" thru 3/8" i believe... cut and fit to need...

I made all of my lines except the S lines and of course the hoses...

Hope this helps...

My rear line to the frame cross is one long length, no coupler. 65" long. Ya, I'm thinking going that route also with buying the tubing.

Always double flar on brake lines, because you wont get a second chance!

The S- lines are readily available from a lot of vendors at about $6.00 a piece Restoring a vehicle is an almost bottom less pit in which you throw money.

I understand that it comes down to $$$ when doing a restoration. Having done many, as well as plenty of mechanical work on other types of vehicles, I would consider a pre-made brake line kit for my M38 and M38A1.
Sure, I could probably purchase all the line and fittings here for around $50 or less but when you consider the time and effort involved in making your own its hardly worth it. I think a complete kit is around $95.
This is especially true for those of you that have next to little, if any experience in bending and flaring brake lines. Trust me, I have done plenty and it takes a long time to be proficient at it...

I was lucky when I purchased my project. The seller included a bunch parts for the resto including a new brake line kit.

The section of the brake line that goes over the axles is the most complex but I imagine it wouldn't be that hard to create the bends by hand.

My biggest problem with making brake lines is the double flaring on steel lines. Maybe it was the flaring tool I was using or my technique but I wouldn't try to do the whole brake system based on the problems I had flaring the ends of the line.

Brass seems to be much easier to flare.

Installing the S lines would be a pain if not for this little trick.
Remove the hose retaining clip 1st, install, position and finger tight
the S line fittings, then reinstall the hose retaining clip and then
finish tightening the fittings..worked for me..

I bought a pre-made brake line kit for my M38 - not a bad value when you consider the time and effort to find and/or make all the parts. When I've needed extra lines I've bought pre-made lines and used them. If I need a specific length or a shorter line, I've cut and re-flared one end of a pre-made line. The vent lines can be made from the same material. You could always buy in bulk as already mentioned and make your own - when you get done I'm sure you'll make better flares than me!

When it comes between $120 for a kit and $30 its an easy decision. I priced and estimated that I can get all 6 generic straight lines that include fittings on both ends for around $30. I will then cut one end to length and reflare. Local shop will rent a falring tool and bender for free. Of course I'll try it on the cheapest length so if I mess up, im out maybe $4. Besides, you don't learn without doing and I have confidence it wont be hard.

I think it ususally feels better to do it yourself.

I tried bending the vent line from the manifold to the valve cover. After folding several in half in stead of bending them, I opted to use one of the used ones that I have. Then I just decided to buy a premade brake line kit from MWM instead of trying to make the brake lines myself.

I still want to attempt bending the vacuum lines myself since there is not a repro kit available for the late M38. I have a double flare tool. So, what is the secret to bending tubing with out folding it? I'll be using 1/4" copper tubing when the time comes.

No secret. For smaller radius bends, you need a set of tubing benders.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWA ... Pid=search

I've also been able to use round objects in a pinch for a substitute with varying degrees of success (think pipe, pulleys, etc.).