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I have pretty much made all my big parts into little parts and am readhy to get the frame sandblasted. I have looked it over to see what sandblasting might harm and the only thing I am concerned about is the inner surfaces of the bell crank. Do I need to but the old bell crank in it, or cover it or tell the blaster to stay away from it or am I just seeing boogers.
I appreciate any input.

Personally I would pull the bellcrank anyways. If you are doing a complete resto you are probably going to rebuild the front end with new components. It would give you an opportunity to inspect the bellcrank and see if it needs repair.
If you choose to leave, any areas like this can always be masked off with a rag and a pile of good old fasioned duct tape and let your blaster know to be careful.

Major519
I have the bell crank and everything else off the frame, I was just thinking about putting the bell crank back in it's hole since I will be rebuilding the bellcrank in the long run. I just thought it might protect the inner surfaces of the bell crank mount on the frame.

How about a long bolt, nut and a couple large washers to cap it all off?

Blasted two of mine, no problem. If anything, it cleans out the hole . I use a fine sand. ( assembly is removed from the frame) . The new bolt gets clamped in the hole. I always have installed a new bellcrank assembly. They all were worn out. John

Thanks guys, I talked with a sandblaster and he said he would just put a rag in the hole for the bell crank

Everyone has their own approach, I’m sure, but I’ve completely disassembled the few chassis I’ve blasted. That means every removable (non-welded) part taken off. Then all threaded studs, bearing surfaces, and such are taped (rubber or silicone tape works well) or plugged. Cheap (throw away) fasteners are put into every threaded opening (I don’t believe in blasting threads). Rubber bushings seem to withstand blasting well, but up close their surface skin is abraded, so these are either removed or replaced afterwards.

Sand blasting is highly variable, pressure, grit used, skill, etc. I prefer to do it myself with a rented trailer-mounted compressor, and the minimum effort required to remove corrosion & old paint. The original frames were not blasted and my goal has been to clean the metal without altering its appearance.

Be conservative; you can always go over stubborn areas with a grit wheel, but cannot put removed surfaces back.

Like painting, preparation is most of the work.