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Hello. I'm working on removing the head on the MB engine that came with my M38. Do I need to remove the studs in addition to the nuts to remove the head? The nuts are all off and it does not seem to want to come off. Any hints or something I'm missing. The old Clymer manual I have says to remove the nuts and the screws, I assume they mean the studs. Thanks for your thoughts.

They can be a bugger due to the studs leaking antifreeze on the threads that go into the block. There is not enough stud to double nut them all and turn out the studs. I use a hammer and wood block and work the head from all sides. If it doesn't come loose, you have to resort to driving a screwdriver into the head gasket to wedge it up. This is the last resort. Remember that you can damage or gouge the surface and possibly ruin the head and block!!!!!It's cast iron, so steel and hard items easily marr or gouge the metal. If you get it to move, I pad the wedge routine with plastic, or wood to protect the machine surfaces. Work it up evenly a little at a time and put wood spacers in to hold your advance from falling back while you are on the opposite side. There are stud extractors which clamp the threads of the studs, but they usually ruin the threads and you have to buy 100.00 dollars worth of new studs. If the studs are stretched and the threads already bad, pull the studs. Remember that you may find the threaded holes in the block strip out or the stud breaks off removeing the studs. If you are intimidated by this, take it to a good motor machine shop and let them do it. May God go with you my son!!!! John

Re-install the head nuts. Leave them all loose about 1/4" from the head. Install the spark plugs. Leave the ignition switch off and crank the engine and when she pops up a little stick a couple of screw drivers in the gap real quick. Then just work her up. If the head didn't pop up then remove the spark plugs and bring #1 TDC. Put a socket on the crank nut and rotate the crank either way 180 degrees. Now snake 2 feet of rope thru the #1 and #4 spark plug holes. The rope will sit on top of the pistons. Now using the large breaker bar and socket on the crank nut rotate the pistons back up by rotating the crank back the 180 degrees.

The studs are removed after the head is off.

Just in case there was a mistake in identifying the engine. The F-Head has a headbolt inside the carburetor intake that will prevent the removal of the head.

Success! The head is off. I am really embarrassed to say that in my haste to remove the head last night I neglected to remove one of the nuts. Once the nut was off I used some wood shims to help hold it up till it came off. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I love those ideas Wes. I will store them somewhere in my memory so if for reason the time comes that I find this situation in my lap, I will know what will work.