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Hi, this post is really part of our problem as stated in our topic, "Engine Cutting Out."

We have a NOS distributor that has obviouisly been in storage for a long time. We want to install it to, hopefully, eliminate or solve a problem of our engine cutting out and then not starting until it cools completely.

When I was completing the restoration of Leatherneck, my 1951 M38, I thought about making the installatiion at that time. I asked for help with lubrication and Wes responded. I was in a hurry to get it at least running and I did not want to take the necessary time then to get the distributor ready; naturally, I can not find the information Wes suggested now. So, please Wes, if you see this and can furnish me this information again, I will greatly appreciate it; perhaps, some members can make some suggestions. Thanks and Semper fi Ben

Look in the "Downloads" section of this website, M38 M8A1 M170 section, click on "Electrical", open page 2, you'll see "M38 M38A1 24 Volt distributor maintenance". Lubrication recommendations are in the "Assembly" section. The pages are not in order but scan around and all the information is there. The general lubrication information for the whole vehicle also contains a reference to distributor lubrication - look in TM9-8014, page 62, lubrication chart.
Just a suggestion, I'd take the coil out of the spare distributor and install it to isolate the problem to the coil rather than introducing a whole new part to the jeep which may or may not be in working order. The coil is a maintenance item and taking it out of the NOS distributor won't disturb the integrity of the part.

Hi Skyjeep 50, thanks for the input; it is very timely as we have the opportunity today to start again. And, I personally agree with you about changin out just the NOS coil first but as I want my son to take over, I want him to make the decision. But, at any rate the references you provided will certainly be used. My, what a lot of great information on this site that Wes and Ryan initiated. Thanks again, and Semper Fi Ben

Just a quick reminder. Those two shaft bushings do not have any external means like an oiler cup to lube them. They are meant to be soaked in oil before they are installed and should last the service life of the distributor. Your NOS unit if sealed would not require re-lubing them.

It would be best to make the decision to use the whole new distributor vs only the coil based on the condition of the currently installed distributor.

If your current shaft end play and side play are within tolerance and the centrifugal advance (governor) mechanism is free to move and not excessively worn then by all means just borrow the coil.

side play max 0.005 with 5 lb pull.
end play max 0.003.

Hi Wes, how nice of you to help us---boy, we need it---seems like old times. We are regressing rather than progressing. When we started again a week or so ago, we were exactly as we left off over a year ago; Leatherneck started immediately, ran great but after coming to temperature, it would begin to falter and die unless the gas pedal was pumped or choked.

After several hours, it will not even start---that was the same as yesterday when it was real hot but did start this morning cold and ran great with one of the two older coils. A few minutes later, it would not start so my son installed the coil from the NOS distrbutor and it would still not start. We decided to disassemble the new distributor and lub it and tnen install it; but on close inspection, as you stated, it had plenty of lub except on the Wick so we applied oil as the references stated and installed the NOS distributor.

Will not start and nearly cold. It doesn't seem to me that the spark at the plug is as strong as it should be. We hooked up a 12 volt timing light by using only the + - poles of one battery and using the regulation attachment received no action from the tester. We than re-checked the point gap and found it at .020 and there is where we stoppped for a day or so.

Wes, I was really convinced that the coil was the problem but what are the chances that 3 coils would be bad with of them new; similiarly, what are the chances that two rotars, points, condensors would be bad?

As I think you know, this jeep has new batteries, cables, plugs and wires, and new distributor. There is of course no play with the shaft as it marries up with the oil pump. Timing has not been checked but it was right on with the old disbributor.

Going over your list with your 'rough starting' post, I can not spot one thing that I haven't checked. I should mention that the heat riser is working fine and the starter is giving a good crank.

There is one thing which seems to be very minor and probably not involved: The The fuel hand pump on the dash: When we started this time, we noticed a small gas leak where the line to the pump connects with the main line. We fixed this problem and for some reason, the pump handle will not stay pushed home and there is a more noticeable smell of gas; further, the way we have to start it even when it is cold is by pusing the gas pedal all the way in and it cranks and sputters until it excess gas it burned off. This did not happen until we fixed the leak. Any possible connecton?

Any new ideas will be greatly appreciated and how is your health? With great respect for your military vehicle knowledge and the trememdous help you have given to so many otheres. Semper Fi Ben

Hi Ben, Long time no hear...

Disconnect your hand primer pump and bypass it... you are getting air in the fuel line... Had the same problem... the check valve in the "T" can be simulated with a fitting from ACE that is soldered closed and then it will look correct; just will not pump fuel...

Also check your condenser...

Hope this helps...

I'm not sure where you are at in your diagnosis but I would start at the beginning again and recheck the basics - gas, air, compression (and its corollary, suction) and spark. Do you have good compression on all cylinders (and suction for proper atomization of fuel)? Remove all the spark plugs to check compression. Are you getting gas? Pull the connection from the fuel pump to the carb and crank the engine - you should get a good spurt. Air - choke plate and throttle plates working as they should be, no air blockage? Yes, and as mentioned above, dissconnect the hand pump. Check spark and its corollary, timing - check and/or set the timing manually if you can't get the timing light to function. Using the timing mark on the front pully, set engine at 5 BTDC and check to see if the rotor is pointing to the number 1 position with the points just opening. Visually check the distributor cap, and plug wires, make sure the lead main electrical feed wire to the distributor is attached, check for 24v. Check spark - hook up #1 spark plug and ground the tip to a engine bolt, crank to see if there is a spark. If your garage is brighly lit, the spark may not seem very strong. If everything above checks out Ok, I'd next try feeding a little gas or even starting fluid into the carb and try to start. If it fires at least you know ignition may not be the problem (or all of the problem). Once you establish that the engine will run, then you can recheck other elements such as the carb. One thing to be careful of since you have replaced several coils is to make sure the iginition switch is not left on for very long, if the points are closed and the ignition is on, the coil can overheat and be destroyed. Good luck!

Hi Skyjeep50, thanks for the detailed check list. Actually, everything about this jeep has been gone through and replaced with mostly NOS items or rebuilt. Yet, you are certainly on the mark that everything will have to be re-checked.

The first thing we are going to do is cap the connection from the main line to the hand pump as I really think Hal is right and that their is a relationship to the flooding---although I think it is gas being allowed to get into the pistons rather than air, but that remains to be seen---this will only be a temporary disconnect as I want it to eventually work.

The cap is off the distributor---I think my son has removed and re-installed it a dozen times---and we are going for the timing mark as you suggest to double check next and then re-install and see if it starts.

One thing you mentioned which I have been thinking about all day (I have been separated from my manuals) and that is trying to remember where the main 24 volt line comes in to the distributor so will check that out.

Again, thanks for your help and we will find this problem eventaully.

I might tell you that I finished this restoration about 5 years ago and because of major health issues, have never been able to really check everything out---most honest restorers will admit that they don't get everything back original the very first time. It is for the reason that I never got past the point where I trusted the motor that I have not been able to drive it---I still want to ride at least one parade. So, with my son finding time now, and the help of the good people on this site and g503, we fill find the problem. Thanks again, and Semper Fi Ben

The distributor is fed 24v from the ignition switch, the wire should be marked with a #12 tag. It screws into the side of the distributor with a large plug - you can't miss it (but I recently forgot to screw it in after some routine maintenance on my M38, so I know of what I type!).
The pic is of my rebuilt engine pior to installation, the distributor power connector is pointed towards the back end of the generator. Sorry, no closeup. Keep at it, you will get there, I've been working on my M38 for over 4 years.

Hi Skyjeep 50, thanks for the picture; I had just retuned from the shop and confirmed the connection by sight and by book---my, what my memory has lost in just 5 years. Anyway, looks as if you have a beautiful motor to install. By the color, I am gussing your are restoring one to be USNavy.

The latest here in MO is good news. We are back to square one. While I was gone today, with a cold engine, my son re-installed the cap to the NOS distributor and it started after nursing a flooded carb and ran like a dream; yet, when it reached temperature it quit again. At any rate, we know that he installed the NOS distributord correctly, it is timed, and that we are back to a heat problem. On the way home, I stopped got a rigged cap to put on the gas line to block off the pump so we will try that next and I am confident again that the flooding will be solved as it worked fine until we fixed the leak. Who knows, maybe that just might solve the dying problem also.

If not, I think we will then concentrate on a vapor lock situation; maybe my lines are too close to the exhaust or manifold. I will re-check with a picture. As I remember, there is a good one some place in the manual. Thanks again for all your help.

I thought I had most of the manuals for the M38 but can not find the TM9-8014 that you mentioned;I have A and B but can't locate the plain 8014.

Thanks and Semper Fi Ben

Hope you get the problem fixed, Ben.

I notice on Skyjeeps generator that the cable connector plug is oriented on the side of the generator. Different than all the others I have seen.

The generator is a whole 'nuther story but the short version is that I needed to clock the end caps around so that the plug was on top. Didn't notice that until I hung the generator on the engine prior to assembly. The engine was painted gray because I am aiming to finish the jeep in Navy colors and also because some of the accessory engine parts were already gray. Either they had been painted gray in some rebuild shop or perhaps were in a Navy-painted jeep at some time. All I know of the jeep's history is that prior to the PO who only had it for a short time, it was a fire dept. jeep in Maine.

MajBen - Congrats on getting the engine running, at least you're on the trail to keeping it running! Runs for a while then quits? - Is your gas tank vented properly? If you have a vented gas cap is the vent open? My M38 has a vented gas tank with the vent line going to the air cleaner and a non-vented cap (for the purpose of fording). Whatever way your jeep is configured, check to make sure your tank is not developing a vacuum. Take the cap off and then run the jeep.

Ben, you do not need TM 9-8014. That's for the M38A1. TM 9-8012 or TM 9-804 are the operator's manual for the M38 and you already have 1804A eng and 1804B chassis for the M38.

Make sure you exhaust my hot start checklist before shotgunning every suggestion thrown at you.

Hi Wes, thanks for clearing up the TM9-8014 question---thought I had most of them for the M38 and do have the others you mentioned.

Plans are to recheck you rugh start list, one by one after we disconnect the hand pump. Thanks for our help, Semper Fi Ben