willysmjeeps.com

I have looked for and cannot find the torque amount for the engine crankshaft pulley. TM9-8015-1 mentions the 1 1/16 nut and fan pulley on pg. 124 but does not give an amount. The torque specs. on page 169 does not mention it either. Would anyone know the setting? I also looked in two other military manuals I have and cannot find any mention of this.

And if anyone knows, is there a torque setting for the T-90 transfer case, where the two large nuts hold the front collar of the rear drive shaft and the gear on the main shaft inside the transfer case?

Mike

When a specific torque is not given in a manual then the prevailing general torque applies to the fastener. The later Army pubs have a copy of the general torque charts in them. I have stored a commercial set of charts on my photo album: You can download the larger views there.

No torque value was published by Willys. I use 120ft/lbs and Loctite.

Thank you Wes and GPA.

The manuals are sooo anal I find it odd they don't have a complete list of torque values, including the screws on the data plates.

I believe I will look in a couple old Motors Manuals and other old publications to see if anyone ever published some additional readings. The 120 lbs sounds about right and I expected something in that range. The Locktight is also a good idea.

Mike

The manuals were designed to be used by both skilled and unskilled folks. So the level of "anal" is in the mind of the reader.

Of all the Willys and Kaiser and Military service manuals I own that cover the Willys L and F 134's only one lists the crank damper nut torque. The Utility Wagon and truck manual lists it as 100-130 Ft Lbs.

Well color me unskilled. I have just enough tools in my garage to be dangerous.

Yesterday I placed the rebuilt engine in the frame and set the torque for 120 on the crank nut, with my wife holding a wedge in the flywheel. Going by feel, the 120 seemed a bit excessive. I believe I settled on between 100-110.

After installing the front driveshaft, I locked the front differential and began to change out the leaking seal on the rear drive shaft yoke. Could not break that nut loose without the tires wanting to climb my wheel chocks. Got out the impact wrench and spun the nut off no problem but had to get a puller to get the yoke out. Then pried the seal out and noticed that the present day seal sent from Midwest looked a lot different. Tapped the new one in and rather than fitting flush with the housing, it has a raised ridge that protrudes, but seems to clear the guard on the yoke. Put all back together and torqued the nut at the same value as the crankshaft nut. Still waiting to proceed in this area, making certain there are no more drips.

If anyone is still with me, does this sound like the correct seal? It is the proper size internally and externally but has that raised area and is much more lightweight in construction.

Actually that torque is listed in the manual at 200 to 220 Ft Lbs.

I have seen both shielded and unshielded versions of that seal

Whoa. That's a ton. I'll have to get my wife to do that one.

Thanks for the correction on this Wes. I would have left it a little light.

They make a tool for holding the yoke still while you apply the torque. You can take a piece of 1/4" steel plate cut to be slightly larger than the full face of the yoke. Weld a 1" x 2 FT bar to it and drill 4 holes in it so you can bolt it to the U-bolt holes in the yoke. Then cut a hole in the center for your socket.

A lot of the deatil that can;t be found in the M38 and M38A1 Army manuals can be found in the two primary civvy CJ manuals. SM1002 and SM1046.

That over 200 was not for the crank pulley [so don't try it] otherwise you may strip the crank threads & that is very undesireable. The large numbers are for the transfer case & differential flange nuts....