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rearching springs
Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:24 pm
by circleburner12
restoring a 53 m38a1, my question is should i have my springs rearched or clean them up and repaint. is so could anyone tell me where to find the correct arched specs fot the springs to bring back to original if needed. thxs michael
Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:28 pm
by wesk
Re-arching is fine as long as it is done properly. Use the specs in the TM 9-8014, page 290. The unloaded distance between spring eyes.
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:46 pm
by circleburner12
i check the distance between the eyes and my springs are not quite the lenght the manual's spec's. so im assuming the springs are find. what do you think wesk?.
thxs michael
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:34 pm
by wesk
Are the measurement matched left to right as well?
Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 6:06 pm
by circleburner12
wesk, i'll have to check this weekend, i dont think so but ill double check and let you know. thanks
Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:30 am
by Oldsalt
How does the cost of re-arching compare to new springs?
Are there any places folks recommend for it? Places to stay away from?
Thanks
Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 7:48 am
by Oldsalt
What is the normal position of the spring shackle? I thought it should be in the middle of its swing, and I've been assuming my springs were sagging pretty badly on the M38A1 I'm working on, as the springs were nearly touching the frame. I just took the measurement that Wes mentioned, however, and they are only 5/8" over what the TM-9 lists as correct. Shortening them by 5/8" doesn't seem like it will get the spring shackles back to a middle position, even without any load on them.

Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:16 am
by wesk
There really is no normal position. It varies with weight of the jeep and age/condition of the springs and weather or not the shackles and pivots are maintained with adequate lubrication. The manual spec for the distance between spring eyes is taken on an uninstalled spring. You can come close by carefully unloading the spring but for a truly accurate measurement you need to at least disconnect one end and loosen the "U" bolts on the axle.
Re-arching is usually cheaper than new springs and if done properly will last just about as long.
Finding a good shop boils down to the same choices when looking for an engine overhaul shop. You will have to locate the spring shops and get some references from them and view their facilities and make a choice.
All of this really depends on what you will be doing with the jeep.
1-Factory show resto.
Correct NOS or rebuilt springs.
2-Motor pool class resto.
As received original springs or rebuilt original springs.
3-Heavy load hauler. IE large radio set, welder, off roading, snow plowing.
My choice here would be a 1" lift aftermarket set of modern springs and shocks for the Radio set, welder or snow plowing. A 2" or greater set of modern aftermarket for off roading depending on the travel built in and the tire size used.
Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:56 pm
by Oldsalt
Wes, thanks for the info. Sorry for the delay in replying.
I don't plan on any heavy off roading with this jeep, but it will be use to carry some loads occasionally. It is actually the front springs that are the problem with this jeep however. This gives me something extra to think about. Who sells springs with lift? I've never seen anything on the MV websites to indicate that you had a choice.
Thanks again,
Russell
Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 11:40 pm
by wesk
They will be aftermarket item. Rancho and etc.
Keep in mind when shopping for aftermarket springs the front on the M38A1 uses a reverse shackle as compared to the late CJ5. Only the 1955 CJ5 had the reverse shackle like the M38A1 in front. The aftermarket kits usually require you use their bushings and side plates instead of the original Willys threaded shackle parts.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-lift- ... /index.htm
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rancho-2-5 ... 6825k.html
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:44 pm
by RimfireJim
Oldsalt wrote:How does the cost of re-arching compare to new springs?
My local shop charged $300 this year for rearching and rebuilding all four springs, including replacing clips that were missing and correctly flaring the tips of the leaves. He even matched the dimensions of the new clip material with that of the old ones, even though it required getting some stock that he normally doesn't use. That's about 3/4 to 1/2 of what stock replacement springs seem to run.
Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:30 pm
by circleburner12
ok wesk here's the measurment's, sorry for being so late getting the info back to you.
from the manual tm 9-8014 page 290 the springs are center to center
front 38 3/8
rear 44 3/4
my springs are
left front- 37 7/8
right front- 37 -7/8
left rear - 43 3/4
right rear- 43 3/4
now these measurments are a close approx. so wesk whats your opinion?. thxs michael
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 12:47 pm
by wesk
If those are unloaded measurements then you should be just fine provided the springs are mechanically sound. Keep in mind that the strength of the spring is not a linear scale. A healthy spring will increase it's resistance to sag as more weight is applied. A tired spring may measure in good unloaded but with 500 pounds added may nor carry the weight as well as a new one or as well as better old one on the opposite side. A good test now is to add 500 pounds to the center rear of the jeep and compare the rear two measurements. Then do the same with the front.
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:45 pm
by circleburner12
they were measured unloaded, im hoping they are good but i have no idea how or where to find 500 lbs to put on the springs to check. i may have to wait till i install them back on the frame with some weight and recheck. thxs
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:07 pm
by wesk
You could place each spring inverted on the ground and have a 200 + pound guy stand on each one and measure the new eye to eye distance.