willysmjeeps.com

im about to rebuild my f134 engine for my a1. can anyone give me a good source to purchase a good quality rebuild kit from . or can i go to my local parts store. thxs

You can get ahead and order gaskets and a few other known needs like hardware items but you need to wait until the engine tear down and inspection is completed so you can order correct over/under sizes in bearings, rings, cam followers and etc.

These engines only turn 3000 or so and are not so hard on bearings and rings that you need to have super hipo expensive parts. Shop your local auto parts store and compare prices.

yes wesk u are correct, on waiting untill it's bored. back when i was racing dirt modifieds i used top of the line parts. but to be honest i know nothing about these little jeep engine's. i'll check with local part store's and see what they offer. thxs

but to be honest i know nothing about these little jeep engine's

Let's get you up to speed.

Do you have a copy of TM 9-8015-1?

Another helpful manual that offers a lot of additional info not found in the above manual is the Civilian Factory manuals either SM-1002 (L&F134's up thru 1965), SM-1037 1968 F134 & Dauntless V6, or SM-1046 (F134 and Dauntless V6

wesk i do have the tm9-8015-1, but the civilian manual i have is the 46-71 jeep cj rebuilders manual, and show to cover the a1. thxs

The Moses Ludel book is a great book and I also have a copy but you can really make good use out of a SM 1037 or SM-1046.

Some stand out points of interest in these Willys engines that you usually don't see on the modern stock or racing engines are"

Distributor driven by oil pump which is driven by cam. This makes correct indexing of oil pump during overhaul very important.

Cam only has one bearing which is at the front. If the block or cam journal surfaces are worn beyond limits you'll never get decent oil pressure. The cam can be rebuilt or replaced. The block can be modified to use 289/302 Ford cam bearings in the center and rear journals.

The cam followers when worn will result in poor oil pressure as well. The followers if worn can be replaced. The bores in the block if worn can be oversized for oversized followers.

High volume oil pumps are not the ticket on these engines.

There are two different rods used. #1 & 3 get one part number and # 2 & 4 get the other. They are also indexed differently on installation.

There are two oil gallery plugs in the crankcase at the center main bearing web. They use a low profile slotted head on one and a standard square head on the other. Crank interference is the issue.

If you discover a spun or overheated #1 rod bearing then most likely you have the large bore oil squirt nozzle for the cam gear and need to go to the smaller nozzle.

There's a welsh plug behind the rear cam journal. Do not hammer the cam gear on or you will knock it loose and get an oil leak that looks just like a rear main oil leak.

Pay close attention to the factory manual explanation on how to set crank end play.

Play close attention to the proper installation of the valve guides.

When your machinist says the block needs to be decked remind him to make it as light as possible to keep your engine serial number visible.

Even the best automotive engine rebuilding shops today can lack the F134 Willys specific experience to avoid tripping over these peculiar details. Don't be too bashful to ask how many Willys F134's he has done, if he has the correct factory service manual and can he give you a list of happy customers you can contact that have the f134's he has rebuilt.