Page 1 of 1
m38 body mounting problems
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:32 am
by djalohr
after buying the Omix-Ada 12201.01 Body Mounting Kit i noticed it didn't work but, then i found the parts list here on the site. i don't exactly understand the measurements of the cushions and also the reason for 2 (#1 body hold down) cushions that are different.
I've been really frustrated with my jeep lately, this "fit all' body mount kit has just halted my progress. i'm going to go grab the bolts,nuts,washers after class. where would i get the cushions?
sorry i put in wrong place, i love my m38 too much to sell...yet.
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:11 am
by Bretto
Ive seen the picture of that kit and whats included and never understood why they charge so much for it.
Ive heard of people using mudflaps, conveyor belt or old tire sidewalls. Someone even suggested getting one of those boat trailer rollers and cutting it into slices.
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:43 am
by evanso1975
At my work, we sometimes use a cork/rubber AV pad (about 1/2" thick) to take up any gaps between our cabin units and the ship's deck (and believe me, a 5/8" steel deckplate has more ripples in it than my jeep's body tub!

). The cork content is very low, so water ingress shouldn't be an issue. I liberated a small quantity for use on my M38. Seemed a good idea at the time.
Maybe there's a similar product available local to you. You could start with a boat supplies place, or somewhere that stocks anti-vibration mounts for machinery. Or a specialist flooring outfit......
Wbr,
Owen.
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:56 am
by wesk
John at Midwest military and Ron Fitzpatrick at G503 Parts both sell the rubber sets.
Here's the layout
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
If you review the mounts closely the toe board gussets use a rubber pad between the gusset and the top of the frame but no bolt. The arm that hangs down the side of the frame gets the other pad and the bolt.
Keep in mind that these are the starting points when installing and aligning the tub you will need extra rubbers or shim stock to make adjustments. You square the rear of the tub with the rear crossmember and work your way forward. At the front you must insure holes for pedals, steering column and shifters align properly then temp attach the front sheet metal and adjust tub as needed to allow the front sheet metal to align. Then do the final tightening down of the hardware. Do not forget to check alignment of the starter kick pedal with the starter.
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:37 pm
by djalohr
oo i do love pictures, thanks wesk
i checked with army jeep parts since they are only a few hours away and ordered it from them, at least i can still return that mess of a kit i bought. thank you everyone!
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:46 pm
by donthedickens
I see you have found a source for your parts. Good.
I was in Tractor Supply Co. last weekend and saw conveyor belt for sell by the foot. They had 6 inch wide and 12 inch wide and it was about 1/8" thick. It was strong rubber type product with a thread core for strength. I wish they had been selling that a few years back before I went to all the trouble of cutting pieces out of a tire sidewall. (what a pain in the butt)
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:14 pm
by OKCM38CDN
I go to a Rubber dealer and buy hard rubber, for my M-38 I got 2x3 inch squares of rubber 1/2" thick... For my Willys Wagon I got the same except 3" diameter circles and for those they drilled/punched 1/2" holes in he center... fit like a glove... Will do the same for the A1 when I get started on it... cost me less than $15 for each...