M38A1 pivot ball in bellcrank...

[ChiGuy82]

Hi,
Ok, I have my clutch release bearing, bearing carrier, carrier spring, clutch control lever (fork), clutch control cable...and now, I have the pivot fulcrum stud.
1) For the fulcrum stud- do I just hammer it in? Is there something I should put on it, like anti-seize before I do?

2) Is there anything I should know before I attach the engine to the transmission?

3) What kind and where can I find stainless steel bolts for the engine to transmission connection?

Mike

[wesk]

Hi,
Ok, I have my clutch release bearing, bearing carrier, carrier spring, clutch control lever (fork), clutch control cable...and now, I have the pivot fulcrum stud.
1) For the fulcrum stud- do I just hammer it in? Is there something I should put on it, like anti-seize before I do?
I believe you just press them in. I would not coat it. Pressure will normally always be applied against it.

2) Is there anything I should know before I attach the engine to the transmission?
This depends primarily on what you don't already know, what all you have taken apart and weather you have the manual in front of you! Are you attaching the engine to the bell housing or the engine/bell housing assembly to the transmission?

3) What kind and where can I find stainless steel bolts for the engine to transmission connection?
Stainless is a lot of overkill in corrosion protection and money. The correct cadmium plated steel bolt is just fine 7/16-14NC-3x 1 1/4".

Mike

[ChiGuy82]

Thanks Mike,
Wish there was a simple way to post pictures on this site from my computer. I had the engine, transmission and the transfer case completely rebuilt and restored. Clutch plate, housing, pressure plate all connected to the flywheel already. I have the manual and as far as I can tell...all I have to do is put the clutch together and attach the t-case/transmission/bellhouse to the engine.

Any tips on what not to forget about when I do this?

Mike

[Yarder]

Yes, after I forgot to put in the pivot ball and then dropped it inside the housing, and after hiring the 9 year old girl from across the street to get the parts back out, I attached fishing line to those parts, so that when I was struggling getting the release cable on, nothing fell back down inside again.

[wesk]

1 - Make sure you have the two dowel bolts in the correct holes and the engine stay cable in the correct hole. I prefer to temp install two pilot bolts with ground to a bullet shape tips and a pin hole just far enough from the head of the bolt to allow the temp installation of a diaper pin to hold the bolt/pin in place until you have them mated tight together.



2 - Common errors are: To not have the spring hooked to the fork. To have the fat side of the clutch disc center against the flywheel!(Yes it fits both ways and only works one way. Fat side towards the pressure plate.) To have the clutch cross shaft reversed (yes it fits in both ways and only works right one way. Long arm at bell and short arm at frame rail). Not having the clutch cable connected.



3 - It works best with two people who decide before hand who the boss is!

4 - If tranny input shaft gets stubborn because the splines aren't lined up with the clutch disc just turn the engine's fan or crank shaft back and forth a little.

5 - Make sure you have a floor jack under the bell housing to help with alignment.

6 - It is best to install the engine mount rubbers to the engine front plate before you drop the engine in and also make sure you have the radiator support rods in the holes in the mount rubbers and yes there is a right rod and a left rod and it's a real PITA to put them in afterwards.

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