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I am planning on repacking the steering knuckles and have been reading up on the task ahead.
Will I need the removers and replacers? (shown on page 59 of the maintenance manual) Can you still get them?
Are there dimensioned drawings of the screws, as they look like I could make them up?
Also I am not sure about the oil seals in the diff when I take out the drive shafts, do i need to replace them as a matter of course too?
Thanks
Andy

I'm sure others will cringe at the way I did it, and using the right tools is definately the right way to do it.

With that said, I made my own remover/installer setup. Also, when re-installing the races, you don't want to beat them in - the metal is thin in places and can crack. I used a piece of pipe (1.5" ID to catch the race as it was pulled out with a pice of flat bar on top of it. On the underside I used a socket that just fit inside the opening for the race. Run a bolt through the whole contraption (Grade 8 bolt), secure with a nut and tighten away. I'm sure a little heat would have helped, but I didn't really need it.

To re-install, all you need is a bolt and 2 pieces of flat bar to squeeze it in. This sounds easier than it really is, because getting it started square is the hard part. I had to do a little tapping to get mine started in.

Wiltshireboy wrote:I am planning on repacking the steering knuckles and have been reading up on the task ahead.
Will I need the removers and replacers? (shown on page 59 of the maintenance manual) Can you still get them?
Are there dimensioned drawings of the screws, as they look like I could make them up?
Also I am not sure about the oil seals in the diff when I take out the drive shafts, do i need to replace them as a matter of course too?
Thanks
Andy

You don't need those tools if you are just repacking the bearings and not replacing them. They are for removing and replacing the cups (outer bearing race). If you are repacking, you can just leave the cups installed in the knuckle and clean and inspect them in place. The cones (inner races and the rollers) come out with the bearing caps, so you can clean and inspect them easily.

No need to replace the oil seals if they aren't leaking. Besides, that is something you have to do from inside the axle housing with the differential removed, which is a far different job than repacking the steering knuckle bearings.

Whoops, my bad ! Looks like I need to read the first sentence all the time, huh? Anyway, I hope you don't need to use my advice on the tools after you inspect your kingpin bearings!

A few things that might help:
1)Don't take the brakes apart - leave them on the backing plate and take the whole assembly off.
2)Just take the upper king pin off - no need to remove the bottom one to remove/replace the knuckle
3)Keep track of the shims
4)Polish the ball if replacing the seals
5)Test your preload WITHOUT seals or gease and torque to spec. Should be 6 - 9# preload using a fish scale. It will be a good bit tighter with the seals in place.
6)Don't forget to pull the axle out and try not to move the it around too much if it is a Bendix type - it is a little frustrating putting them back together if they fall apart, but they do need to be cleaned up and repacked too.
7)It turns soo much better with new grease!

On mine, the driver's side lower bearing cage was rusted through (trashed), but on the passenger's side it was the upper that was in bad (but serviceable) shape.

Hope I helped instead of confused you! I actually enjoyed the job once I got into it - it wasn't hard at all.

Matt

many thanks for the help.
It is much appreciated
Andy