12V or 24V? That is the question.

army_inc · Post by **army_inc** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:09 pm

Need some opinions on this one. I've acquired a parts jeep today and a lot of parts came with it. Most of the parts (distributor, possibly a generator as I'm not sure what it looks like(although it doens't look like a starter), lights, guages etc.) are 12v. I have a 24V starter and originally wanted to put her back to ask close to military as I can. Although I'm doing a motor pool restoration, 12V wouldn't be bad, but how much would it affect my wallet as opposed to a 24V system? Now both, I'm sure, cost an arm and a leg, but which one would be better for me to use. I plan on using the jeep as a fun vehicle to drive around on a weekend here and there. Thanks for your help.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:27 pm

I've driven military jeeps with 24 volt electrics for well over 30 years and have no complaints and have never been left walking home. With that said I will point out that I am a professional mechanic and keep the electrical system maintained properly. Remember, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"!

Bottom line is a stock 24V military jeep has more resale value than a non-stock 24 volt military jeep.

For a daily driver with no complete 12 or 24 volt system in her yet is a tough choice but if the paragraph above was not an issue of concern to you then by all means install the system you are most comfortable with.

You can go to the Novak web site for a very thorough explanation of what must be done or changed in a 12 volt conversion. There will be a serious initial expenditure for 12 volt starter, alternator, lamps, gauges, senders, horn, coil and any other electrical accessories.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/12_volt.htm

For a 24 volt system the stock generators 24V 25A are very common and not unreasonable. The mechanical regulators are getting slightly difficult to find in good working order. The rest you should already have.

My preference for a driver is a modern one wire Delco alternator in 24V 60A. Great reliability, 1/4th the weight and size and will cost about $100 to $150 depending on who you know. More accurate power output control contributes to much longer life in lamps and gauges and senders.

army_inc · Post by **army_inc** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:45 am

I'm a helicopter mechanic by nature so mechanically speaking, I should be ok. Electronically speaking, I don't know crap about that side of the house. I'm sure you can do some type of preventative maintenance with Corrosions Preventative Compound (CPC) on the elecetrical connectors. Other than that, I have no clue. So basically what I have on the 12V side now is a Distributor, Generator, Starter (working condition? Doubt it) a few headlights.

Here's what I have on the 24V side. I have the starter. That's it. I have access to a bunch of electrical parts that'll save me some $. For example, if the A1 can use 151 or HMMV (humvee) electrical parts, then I can get things like: Dash board light box, headlights, guages, things like that.

I'd like to keep this project as close to military specs as I can. At least I want it to look as close to military as I can. I don't want to skimp on the rebuild as I'm doing a frame off resto. At the same time, I'm trying to keep my wife happy by keeping the cost down as best as I can (I know that's hard). Any suggestions?

As for comfortability in either system? It doesn't matter if it's a 24V or 12V. I still don't know crap about it.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:07 am

Well then based on your assessment you are right in the middle with your inventory but your access to M151 parts makes the 24 volt system the way to go. I spent two in the Army as a 67N20 so I think once you acquire the TM 9-1825B dated 1952 you'll have no problem grasping the fundamentals of the system.

Get the copy of TM 9-1825B Auto-Lite Electrical Component Repair Manual and download a copy of the TB 9-2300-228-20 Tactical Transport and Combat Vehicles: Troubleshooting for Instrument Cluster Gages, .......
http://www.cj3a.info/sibling/milgauge/milgage.htm

Some suggestions for parts:
The M151 60 amp alternator is great. I have one on my M37. Most of the M151 distributor parts work in the M38/M38A1. Also the later M151A1/A2 transistorized ignition assemblies can be adapted to the M38/M38A1 distributor. All the M151 gauges and senders can be used in the M38/M38A1. The M151 wheels have too much offset for the M38/M38A1. The M151 pintel safety chain bracket is a real nice addition to the M38/M38A1.

army_inc · Post by **army_inc** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:22 am

Well Wes, as always, you've done it again. Thank you for your advice. It's good to know that those parts will also work as well. I have more access to HMMV parts than 151, but a buddy of mine has a 151 and I'm sure he can direct me to where some good parts are.

Thankfully I have plenty of rims (8 now) so that's not an issue. I just need to some other parts and things will hopefully start falling into place. Thanks again.