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Top bow support rod questions

Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:13 pm
by wilfreeman
Alrighty - I made my rodwork using Dave's (Weebee Webbing) measurements. Everything fits up fine - except the windshield bracket hole size is a bit larger than the rod.

My questions have to do with the length of the bent end that goes through the windshield bracket. Why is this 1" long when the bracket is only 1/8" thick? Does it need to be able to move 5/8"? Also, how far from the ends of the rod should I drill the 1/8" holes? And where can I find the retaining pins and chains?

How far above the horizontal rod should the vertical rod extend? Mine is about 1 1/2" above it.

Thanks

Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:49 pm
by wesk
The rod dimensions are for a new installation. You should concentrate on tailoring them to fit your jeep. By this I mean install the top and the door and set the rods where they need to be to give you the best fit. Especially for the operation of the door. The variations with age are caused by the bending aft of the windshield from abuse in the past.

The length of the rod tip entering the windshield bracket is there to help with alignment issues that crop up when you have the rod stuck in the top bow and them connected to the vertical rod then find the front end is a wee bit to far out and you only have a 1/4" and the rod is a 1/2" away from the bracket.

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:47 am
by wilfreeman
Actually, the horizontal rod length looks good and the vertical ones are vertical, so I'm good on that. I don't have my top yet (will have it in a couple of weeks), and am not going to buy/use doors anytime soon, so I really can't check their fit.

So I guess I shouldn't be worried about the rod tip at the windshield then. Also, do I need the retaining pins and chains, or just use cotter pins? Who sells the pins?

Thanks again Wes

Rod details

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:49 pm
by rdsar2k
I used these clips for my shackle pins and rod retainers
http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryvehicl ... C56E192C32

Here are some detail shots of the original rods off Gary Keatings M170. They were very helpful to me.

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Rod details

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:16 pm
by rdsar2k
To add some more observations. The M170s use the same brackets on the windshield as the M38a1s. The hole in the bracket on my M170's had a notch in the holes that matched up to the pinches on the end of the rod shown in the photos. I am unsure whether the notches were by design or wear on mine. I drilled and installed a roll pin to emulate the pinch and drilled the hole for installing the clip.

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:21 pm
by wilfreeman
That's some good info there! Pictures say a lot! You don't happen to have a pic of the rod installed into the w/s bracket do you? Is it supposed to be even with the outside of the w/s frame, or does it matter? I could put a couple of spot welds to hold it out to a certain place.

Rod details

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:39 pm
by rdsar2k
No pics handy but picture this, make the rod like shown, shove it into the bracket as far as it will go. Pin it. The pinches are to the inside (interior) of the bracket and seem to keep the rod from wanting to back out. As I said, I used a small roll pin in place of the pinches that would barely slip thru the bracket hole. M170s rods are also bit different in how they mount in the rear but the front is the same. These are the only pics of originals (either m38a1 or m170) that I was able to find when I was doing my rod work.

Top rods

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:53 pm
by rdsar2k
I just looked at my m170 and I think the notches in the windshield bracket may be from wear. It may be that the pinches are to keep the rod from going all the way thru and make a snug fit when pinning it also setting the rod out a bit from going all the way in. Might make the top a little more water tight when closing the door by eliminating a gap from the top to the inside of the door. The snug fit may have created what looks like a notch as they do look to be worn from the outside. I may make my roll pins a bit longer to try but I do notice a slight gap behind the door in that area. That would help. Before someone points out that m170's are different, I will add they use m38a1 drivers doors and the windshield brackets are the same and in the same location on the windshield frame.

Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:19 pm
by wilfreeman
Thanks for the clarification. I noticed there are no pics on the web. Wes has some pics of the M38, but little detail on this area. I figured that the farther out of the hole the rod was, the tighter the fit might be - that's why I asked. maybe I'll just add washers until I get the right fit. Since I won't have doors, I really don't have anything to go by there.

Thanks for the info!