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does anyone have Solex carburetor experience? I can only start by spraying a squirt of gas down the throat - once it starts I can keep it running although if you run her up the cruise RPMS - 1500-2000 the then drop back to idle it dies. I don't understand the choke - it doesn't have a plate to block air, but I can hear a difference in sound choke on and choke off. I have a pressure reducer after the fuel pump (as I read Solex likes 2-3 PSI), but to start I have to move it up to 5PSI. I think that is something quirky with that Spectre 2517 pressure reducer or maybe the fuel pump is flaky. Back to the Solex - it idles nicely and when the engine is warm and you slowly increase acceleration it seem smooth (not loading up as it had been) - goose it and it wants to die. And, I said it, does die if you take you foot off the peddle when at a higher RPM. If you ease it back down you can get to idle without it dieing. Does anyone use an electric fuel pump? If this seems fuel pressure related I might try that.

The Solex doesn't restrict air flow to accomplish the choking. It increases the fuel flow. It is called a starter not a choke.

All the manuals and info are linked on the 3B page:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/SolexTips.html

and a nice info manual here in PDF:
http://www.traction-owners.co.uk/tech/B ... x%20PB.pdf

The 34PB series for the F134 and the 32PB series L134.

I'm not any kind of expert but I do have a Solex on my M38, ran very well right out of the box - only change was to slighly adjust idle speed upward. Starting procedure has to be correct for this type of carb, pull out the "Progressive Starter" (aka choke knob), engage the engine starter, keep your foot off of the accelerator pedal, and wait until it catches. Then I push the knob in to the half-way point, let it idle for a short time (10-15 sec), then push in the knob all the way. This is per the instructions but it works for my jeep. I have a pressure reducer also - set for 3 psi. So, unless your carb (was it new?) was incorrectly adjusted when it was installed, your problems may be in other areas than the carb. Check fuel flow but also go through the Troubleshooting section of TM9-8012, page 72.

Thanks Wes and Skyjeep - this is the information that should come with the new carb - I was pumping the accelerator and then holding it in 1/2.

I still intend to put a gauge on the fuel line (I left a port for that) and see if the reducer is properly working though-out the range idle to cruise speed. I is hard to find a gauge that reads 0 to 6 PSI, on the 50 PSI one I have it is impossible to read 2 or 3 pounds. I think I see light at the end of the tunnel - just need a break in the stinky-hot weather.

FYI I ran a compression test this Willys L134 Industrial - it is 110-115-110-115. I have heard the industrial is lower then the vehicle.

If the head is an industrial head. The industrial also used a smaller intake manifold.

A word of caution on starting these M series jeeps with the stock YS Crater carbs. The vacuum operated accelerator pumps require a lot of vacuum to function. You do not open the throttle during the start on these stock YS series Carters. That drops the vacuum and the accelerator pumps can't function properly. If you read the operators manual they spell out this "No Pumping the accelerator pedal" start procedure clearly.

This is the type of gauge you should be using. HF <$20

I am very familiiar with Solex carburettors [also used on LR's] & believe you could have problems with both the accelerator circuit & the starting circuit.
Alternatively you are not using a correct starting procedure.

If you have had apart, as I'm still not sure whether the thing is new or not, suggest [if not new] you get an exopoded view of the carb,,,,checking everything is assembled properly. No balls or weights left out or reversed plus the needle valve & seat are clean [they get crap in & as they are caged it is hard to see] as is the inlet strainer.
They are a good carb if assembled properly & diaphragms are not leaking & intact.

I will see if I can find that gauge - as for the carb - it is new and I have done no adjusting. I did take the 3 top screws out and I lifted the top to see if there was gas, which it was dry. That is when I found that I had to boost the reducer dial to 4 or 5 PSI to get it to fill (then when running I could set it back to 3 PSI).

Mine has a standard manifold - the exact same as is on my son-in-law's CJ2A

What casting # head do you have?

Wes the number is 8077 with more under the oil filter bracket, I think the next number is 6 - that would make it 80776

The standard M38 head casting is 800376 and the 1955 & upish replacement civvy head is 807763. Both are 6.48 to 1. The 6.9 to 1 head is casting 937454.