willysmjeeps.com

i looked i swear.

i'd like to purchase a suspension kit for my 52 m38, preferably from in canada. i dont want to lift it. and i would be quite willing to switch to boxed in shackles, if you know what i mean.

so in general who are the dealers in canada, and where can i find a good suspension kit. hopefully for around 400$
or am i best off rebuilding what i have. their mostly good, but starting to fall apart.

thanks for your time.

maybe try these guys
http://www.willysacres.com/
haven't dealt with them personaly yet but they are canadian... they carry mdjuan stuff so not sure if that is good or not.

you can also get in touch with Brian Asbury. he has a selection of parts and he's out of Milton,Ont. he's a member of this forum so just look up his info in the members list and fire off your questions to him. he sent me my Cdn. data plates and a set of repro manuals.

x 2 , Mr. Ashbury is extremely helpful and fair.

cool i will hunt for mr.ashbury.

i never realized the m38can was so rare, less then 3000 put together. i guess i better try to keep it stock, ish. i mean i was going to anyway.

i got some questions. i dont have the net at home, so its hard for me to even find good the articles. i bought and read one manual and printed others... any good directions would help.

i got a slightly newer m170 with a overhead cam, and im wondering if the block is the same as the flat head. it has a fuel pump with a glass window, a generator. and someother good parts.

i plan on using the m170 frame as its in much better shape then the other, i measured them and i believe they are the same size.
any comments? this frame has closed/boxed/regular shackles.

and what else has the 134ci motor in it, mine has regular plugs and wires, and i'd like to get some new ones. it also has a chev alternator.

my crank pully was bent, so i switched it with the slightly smaller one off the m170, it this going to cause me vibration issues.

thats a long list of members...
peace.

almost forgot
my data plate info is as follows

ordnance code no 2230
paint 943
serial no f-10197
delivered date 10-14-52
model m38 cdn
contract no. e-20 lv7 742 army
inspected: i s <canadian tire like symbol> e19

the top for plates are there but the other twobottom ones are missing, i think, well the holes are there anyway.

any other in for you want for the data base? i believe theres something stamped under the hood.

i havent figure out how to load pics yet, i got a couple of her. maybe next time.

peace.

i didnt find brians name one the list... ?

if you have holes for two plates in the bottom left they are for an american only plate and the winch control plate, mine was a w/wn so I only have the one spot open.
Further you are missing one digit from your serial, F-100001 was the first, mine is f-102010 yours should be F-10197X with the x being a number.
at the front of the frame on the drivers side between the lift shackle and grill mount will be a number, this is the CAR number that would have been painted under the door. It wouls read 52-XXXXX mine being 52-32128
this info is all for the m38 cdn by the way.

The M170 is 16" longer then the M38A1 and the M38. The M38A1 is also longer by a wee bit then the M38.

The F134 engine in the M38A1 and M170 is similar to the L134 in the M38 but the blocks will not interchange. The F134 is not an overhead cam engine. It is a split flathead with 4 exhaust valves in the block and overnead valve with the 4 intake valves in the head. This leaves the F134 block with no way to install intake valves in it.

...is it just brian, i guess i looked for brian ashbury and mr ashbury, way to confuse me guys.

i'll get those other numbers, really didnt see the last one. i had the plate with me too, when i was typing it.


20inches ?!? i roughly measured both frame and was with in an inch. i guess i'll have to compare to the book. theres somthing going on there. someone called my jeep a 'hodge podge' <sp>

overhead valve, got it. cool. thats too bad they are different, will the crank swap, or is it the same deal. the ovaries on the cam wont open the valves at the right timing or place.

thank you sirs

The m38A1 is about 3 inches longer than the M38. The M170 you posted is much longer then both the M38 and the M38A1. You most likely actually have a M38A1 someone has made paper on as a M170.



M170 Length 155" and wheel base 101"


M38A1 length 139" wheel base 81"

yea, i bet your right. its defiantly not that long.

any idea then where the extra inch is hiding? if its a m38a1. is it going to cause me the issues im now dreading are in my near future. <i hope its in the bumper>

There are several good web sites that help with frame ID and substitutions.

The CJ3B page is one of the most informative if not the most informative CJ web site on the internet and it's a Canadian web site as well. Literally 75% of the data presented there can be directly applied to the M38/M38A1 series.

These two frame web pages from the 3B tech tips section should clear up exactly how much pain you will be subjected too using the M38A1 frame under your M38 body. In the links below the 3B body is the same lateral and longitudinal dimensions as you M38 body and the CJ5 frame is the same dimensions as the M38A1 frame with differences in the body mount tabs around the gas tank area, the riveted on bumpers, the riveted on pedal mount, the boxed front frame rails and the front spring shckle locations differ as early CJ5 had the same front spring shackle positioning as the M38A1 (pivots forward and shackles aft) whereas the lkate CJ5 had the opposite. Your M38 front spring mounting is also the opposite of the M38A1 front spring mounting.
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Dating/ ... rames.html
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/FrameCJ5.html

I would suggeszt you bookmark the 3B page and it's tech tips page
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/tech.html