Paint Codes

SEABEEINTHEARMY · Post by **SEABEEINTHEARMY** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:22 pm

Does anyone have a PPG OD green paint code for a M38

frankthecrank58 · Post by **frankthecrank58** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:13 am

if you scroll down all the posts in this particular forum i'm sure you'll find your answer. lots of info

jimm · Post by **jimm** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:42 pm

You won't find a PPG code for federal #2430 semi-gloss OD paint, or even Ditzler, which is what it would have been at the time.

Not wanting to buy any of the unknown (to me) paints from the military resto suppliers (and pay the haz mat charges), I worked with TCP Global in San Diego to develop a match in their Restoration Shop acrylic enamel line which is made with PPG materials. I am friends with the guy who created and maintains their extensive vintage color library and he showed me the mixing operation with all the drums of PPG product. We used the inside of my glove box door as a reference, and it compared well with other parts I uncovered later as well as a spray-out from Rapco #23070 which Wes reports as being close to 2430. We chose to formulate it to use their AE Hardener, which adds gloss, so the base paint is quite flat. The hardener creates a polyurethane enhanced product and greatly speeds the curing time, but it contains isocyanates so you have to use appropriate respiratory protection. I found that using 1/2 the standard ratio of hardener produced a level of gloss that seemed about right to me.

If you want to buy it from TCP Global, the paint code that got assigned is TCPMIL319. Don't be thrown off by the "319" part, which is an older (WWII) federal number - we didn't know better at the time. I need to get better confirmation that it is indistinguishable from 2430, then we can change the number. The hardener is AE3001 or AU4001 (same stuff), and I use either their Restoration Shop UR or Kustom shop KR urethane reducers. Note: this is NOT the same as the #1609 Olive Drab they mix as a stock item in their AE product line.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationsho ... rylic.aspx PM me if you want more info.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:23 pm

After extensive research I took paint samples to my local PPG dealer and had them hand match the paint in an enamel.

Send me an email and I can send you the mix code they did for my jeep.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 11:56 am

This is what my local PPG dealer matched for me.

I am not saying it is 100% original OD2430 as I have not seen the original 1950 paint code book, but it is as close as I could get.

A word of advice - make sure the paint is mixed well, frequently when you are using it as the semi-gloss additives can tend to settle to the bottom quickly.

Also when adding the catalyst (commonly misnamed "hardner" as it doesn't make the paint harder, it just cures it) you only need a small amount as it will make the paint glossy. Semi-gloss (satin) finishes are coming back and maybe they will bring back the harnders that don't make the paint glossy.

These new paints are good, but not as durable as the old lead paints. I guess you have to trade off something for safety.

Carleschultz · Post by **Carleschultz** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:31 pm

Thanks, That is very helpful.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:35 pm

Hello Carl,

What color are you painting your jeep?

DMCarpenter · Post by **DMCarpenter** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:46 pm

Forgive me for being dense, but if I am reading this correctly, no one is producing OD 2430, but we can take this printout to a PPG dealer and have them work it up for us?

I am looking to pick up some spraybombs, so I can do the smaller bits and pieces as I go through the resto.

Any thoughts on the refillable spraycans, if this is the way to go?

Thanks:
Dave

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 5:40 pm

Yes you are correct. Ryan's PPG formula is based on unexposed parts of his M38. You should be able to have any PPG supplier fill your bill for spray bombs or gallons.

As a young kid with not a lot of class desire for my paint job I did a spray bomb job which was exactly that; a spray bomb job. It looked very poor. My earlier brush job was a wee bit worse.

Use the cans for touchup and small parts and do the big parts the right way with a spray rig.

DMCarpenter · Post by **DMCarpenter** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 6:13 pm

Thanks Wes, that is my idea, to use the bombs for smaller stuff, breather mushroom, etc. I will not need a whole lot of it as I am going Strata Blue for the body and floor.

Interesting little tidbit on the original paint job end, the inside of the glove box is OD.

Dave

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:52 pm

Several of my period USAF M38 photos show the M38 was originally OD 2430 before being shot Strata Blue.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:22 am

I collaborated with 2 other M38 owners on the color. We each had a sample matched to our vehicle (a hidden part under brackets or panel overlaps) and I took several samples of small NOS parts sealed in wax boxes dated 1950 - 1952 and then mailed a paint chip for us to compare to our own jeeps.

They were all very close to each other and would very difficult to tell from panel to panel if on the same jeep.

I know of one paint chip book from the early 1950's with the 2430 paint chip, but I have not been able to get the owner of the book to take it down and have it matched at PPG. He is fairly busy and more into the WWII jeeps.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:20 am

I have reviewed that persons early 4 digit color code book several years ago at Iola and the color of Ryan's jeep is extremely close to the color of that original 2430 chip. It was at that meeting that I confirmed the reason for the mixup with 24087 in the first 5 digit color code book and also confirmed that the erroneous color chip was 24087 very much 2430 and the interim changed notice which included the correct chip which was very dark brownish 24087. The second edition of the 5 digit book came with the correct dark brownish 24087 chip.