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with the correct on/off lever instead. I bought a 4 plug Packard connector style switch from John at Midwest Military. Does anyone know which input is for the hot wire from the battery? I take it the rest are accessory and distributor lines?

Alright, that one I posted if off google. I didn't realize the difference, until I noticed mine doesn't have letters on the back. So, I don't know what A and C are on mine. Do they both get power from the battery (as in, do I need to split the power)? One goes out to the coil/distributor, do I need to join the rest into one accessory line (I have a heater)?

Get a decent magnifying glass. The numbers are in the rubber.

They aren't. I've looked all over, and even inside the packard connections. I guess I could try it connection by connection with a circuit testor.

Look at the first photo. It shows that with the switch installed per it's index notch the top of the switch has A&B and the bottom B&C.

Now just follow the guide below.


Remember the military wire numbers are in your TM 9-8012 for the M38 and 9-8014 for the M38A1.

So, if A and C are hot leads from the battery, do I need to split the one existing line I have to the current switch into two lines, one for A and one for C? I take it I definitely have to splice the heater line into the dash lights line as well.

Yes.
The dash switch is a DPST switch so in other words its 2 on-off switches controlled by one lever. You have to run battery to both A&C
Brett

You are overthinking the project. Just buy the adapter harness.

I can't find the harness from anyone, so I bought the packard connectors I'll need from Saturn Surplus. I have plenty of 24 Volt wire left from my turn signal kit.