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Okay I am getting serious on this steering wheel, it needs to come off. Question is has anyone ever peeled one open to see the internal structure? I am wondering if I can drill and tap a couple of holes in it to fit my puller, but it would need to be into metal not plastic. The wheel is pretty rough so will likely be replaced anyways but my shaft etc is all good so I can't just cut the wheel off without risking damage to the shaft. Fun. Thanks guys.

TM 9-1804Bpg 38, fig. 13 shows a puller that might be easier to fab. than dissecting your old wheel. just a suggestion

The wheel is pretty rough so will likely be replaced

Don't give up on your old steering wheel too quickly. If it's the plastic that's cracked or chipped, it can be repaired. These posts may help:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... eel+repair

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... eel+repair

Owen.

Here's the simple off the tool shelf solution:



Just review the many options on the CJ3B tech tips pages:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SteeringWheel.html

Also remember to use a lot of penetrant over a few days and don't forget the tighten puller and then rap it with a hammer routing.

my puller is narrower than the hub of the steering wheel, I have no way of fabing anything in metal to grab the back and the only block made for that in the area is from snap on to the tune of $200 which is not happening for a single use tool. and the wheel is not cracked much, it is alright in that respect but it has started to rot? its surface is becoming more porous and turning to powder. I may just drill a small hole and see whats in there.

Here's a 2.5 incher from Dayton for $65 US.

Grainger Item # 3ZM98
Price (ea.) $64.85
Brand DAYTON
Mfr. Model # 3ZM98
UNSPSC # 27111712

These are extremely common pullers and Snap-on is the last place to buy one for non-industrial use. Most auto parts houses also carry them.

Here's a 2.25" split bearing puller from Dexter for $32 through Reid Supply.

Item No: AGP-2263 (In Stock)
Price: $31.44 (EA)

Don't drill. You won't find what you are looking for. I've cut them off with a sawsall and air cutoff tool. The center hub has round rods welded to it from each wheel spoke. The only metal is the splined center and round rods. Take some real good hardwood about 2 inches thick and make two halfs like the bearing puller pictured. Large washers and some imagination. You must remove all horn button stuff from the column center. The large puller bolt that pushes on the inner column threaded tube needs a round slug about a inch thick with a raised portion that fits inside the tube and then a centering divit to keep the threaded puller bolt in it on the other side. You won't ruin the threads that way on the center tube. Get it assembled and put some good strong tension on the puller up against the wheel plastic hub bottom. Take a large hammer and smack the end of the threaded puller bolt. They usually pop off. "Usually". Guess how I know what's inside the hub! If your upper threaded puller isn't wider than the hub, you need to go borrow a puller from a friend or rent one from a mechanic. Save that inner tube and threads at all costs, or you will get to learn all about worm gears and sectors. John

Xamon, you'll know what i mean when i say you should check out Princess Auto! pullers galore for cheap.

The Canadian tire where I live in NS will loan tools. If you bring them back in the same condition you borrowed them in then there is no charge. See if the Canadian tire in your area has the same program. I have borrowed a slide hammer and hub puller so far from them.

with all the suggestions and helpful advice........is the wheel off???

Unfortunatly no. it is a rather stubborn piece. I will need to eventualy invest in a bearing puller of sufficient size it seems. My tool budget is a bit limited at the moment though as I have found some used parts nearby, going to see/buy them thursday.

took mind to a machine shop and had them to press it off. work like a charm, might be worth a visit.

I had a very stubborn wheel on a CJ2A and a proper puller removed it within a few minutes.
The originals are worth saving even if there is cracking (you can repair it). Do not give up and destroy it.
Also, be sure to protect the threads on the column when you use the puller.

I have the correct military pulled: near Milton Ontario if you want to borrow it. The main thing is that you don't want to damage the threaded top of the steering column. PM me if interested.
... Brian

I left the steering wheel nut at the top of the threads to protect it when I pulled mine.....