willysmjeeps.com

This is my first post so please be patient.
I have aquired a 1953 M38A1 (so I'm told) for my son and I to rebuild.
I can't find any identifing #'s on the unit other than a 5 digit # stamped into the left upper frame. The data plate on the dash has been removed as well as the tag on the right rear fender well.
Is there any way I can ID the unit with this frame #?

Depends on what the number on the frame is?

The number on the frame is 21170 but I can't tell if it has a prefix.

21170 could certainly be a MD21170 stamped there by a military rebuild depot.

MD21170 would be a Sep 1952 unit and should exhibit all the pre OCT 53 designs. The hinged grill (you do not have), small openings in the inboard side of the frame rails between the bumper and the grill (can't see). Screw type fasteners on the battery box lid(you do have). The narrow bumper (measure yours). Diagonal seam fender early and verticle seam fender late (You have late fenders). Early no grill support rods vs later with grill support rods above the engine (post photo of engine compartment).

You could have a hodge podge of parts from several M38A1's.


Hinged grill.

Take a look at my M38A1 ID guide on my photo album.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... php&page=1

Where are you located scout1110? There may be some guys near you who can be of help.

I can attest that for info regarding restoring a M38A1 you've come to the right place. I suggest that if you are working on a particular issue you try the search function before posting because it is likely the subject has been covered before (I bet Wes and the other guru's get tired of repeating themselves

In addition, there is a wealth of info posted in the downloads and gallery section.

If you post more photos I'd like to see the dashboard area as well as the engine compartment and back end of the vehicle. I suspect the GI tail lights along with the bumperettes, reflectors, pintel hitch, gerry can mount, trailer lighting jack, and spare tire mount are missing. One difference between civvy CJ's and the M38A1 is that the front spring shackles are reversed. I can't tell from your pix whether the shackles are correct or not. Also, the correct leaf springs have 12 leaves in the front and 13 in the rear... yours look like they might be aftermarket types but again, I can't tell for sure. Obviously your seats and top bows are civilian and the front blackout lights have been replaced with some kind of civvy running light / turn signal. Your front fenders are also cut which you were probably aware of.

Please don't get the idea that I'm trying disrespect your Jeep by pointing out the missing parts and other issues. I was in pretty much the same boat as you when I started and I can tell you that it will involve a lot of research as well as time and money tracking down the "correct" parts. The end result will be something you can be proud of (and have a lot of fun with) but you will face some challenges along the way. I've posted a before and after photo of my project. It took 11 months, the services of an experienced rebuilder friend and two "parts" Jeeps to go from one to the other.

Good luck!
Tim

it also looks like you have a full-floating rear differential, which is more of a WW2 era MB. i can't be sure from the profile pic, but the frame looks a bit short in the rear; judging by where the shackles are. perhaps, as Wes stated, you have an array of jeeps in your jeep. just more fun to figure out

Agree on the Dana 23-2 rear full floater. A jeep like this probably has not had a Dana 44 converted with a $600+ conversion kit. If that is off a WW2 jeep, have you checked to see the gear ratios are the same front and rear? If it is off an early 2A, then it will be ok with a 5.38 gear ratio.

Also, take a close look at the right front wheel- is that a combat rim? If it is, sounds like a previous owner (PO) might have had a G503 (WW2 jeep) to pull parts from (wheels, axles, etc). Combat rims are great trading material.

Always good to see a father/son project, but this jeep will take a lot of work and $ to put back to anything close to original. Consider keeping your rebuild goals to modest levels; problem is if you get too gung ho, it often ends up being a project somebody else finishes. Not the best message to send your kid. Get it running, clean it up, rattle can it and start having fun driving it. It would be a rare kid who has the patience to see a restoration through. Give him the chance to take it to school- it'll be one of a kind and the real thing- even if a frankenjeep to us here. Just my 2 bits worth