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Ok Guys. So after talking with Jim Lurba, it has been recommended that I take a look at my T-90 before installing it back on my frame. I can shift through it just fine and was told by a friend of mine that it shifts, it should be fine (he rebuilt an M151). Now, taking into consideration that my friend worked with me on helicopters, I took his word. After talking with Mr. Lurba, I've decided to take his word as well and look into it since they apparently slip out of 2nd gear a lot. Now I know wear patterns on helicopter parts and I'm only assuming the same goes for the T-90.

Here's my plan. I'm going to drain the T-90 and take a look inside. What should I be looking for on the gears themselves? Do I need to fully dismantle them to be able to tell serviceability? I wanted this project to gain some Car knowledge and I just need a little help. As soon as I drain it today, I'll try to take some pictures and post them so you guys can see what I'm seeing.

As for TM's. I've got the General TM, How to rebuild your CJ/M38A1 book. Would I need anything else? Luckily, I still have a bunch of seals and bearings that will come in handy as well! I have a few gears, but they don't look too good in my opinion. I'll take a picture of those as well and get opinions. Thanks for your help guys as it is greatly appreciated.

You should have at least four Manuals while working on your A1.

TM9-8014 Operator and maintenance manual.
TM9-8015-1 Engine & clutch manual.
TM 9-8015-2 Drivetrain & Body Manual
ORD 9 SNL G-758 Parts Manual.

Additional specialized maintenance manuals are helpful as well since their info is not found in the 3 tech manuals above:
TM9-1825B 1952 Autolite Electrical Equipment Overhaul manual.
TM9-8627 1953 Delco Electrical Equipment Overhaul manual.
TM9-1826A 1952 Carter Carb Overhaul Manual
TM9-1828A 1952 Fuel Pump Overhaul Manual.

In addition the civilian Kaiser manual is also a great help SM-1046.

Finally the illustrated bible for the tranny and transfer overhauls is already written and will answer all your questions.

http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90Rebuild ... ebuild.htm

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCa ... rCase.html

Just about this entire list is free at least in PDF form here on our download pages and elsewhere on the net.

The

I've got the General TM, How to rebuild your CJ/M38A1 book.

I assume is the Moses Ludel's CJ5 rebuild guide which is a great book but not specific enough to your M38A1.

Before you make any decisions on my advice let me introduce myself.
I have been wrenching professionally since 1965. I raced NHRA from 1963 thru about 1974. I got my first jeep in 1971, a 1942 GPW. I have owned another dozen jeeps since. I spent 2 in the Army as a UH-1 mechanic, 22 in the USAF as a heavy jet mechanic and have since spent another 24 years as a civilian licensed aircraft mechanic and inspector. I currently have a M37 driver with M101A1, A USAF blue M38 with M100 (Just finishing up), a 60 CJ5 snow plow jeep, a 1945 MB project and a 1970 CJ5 V6 project.

I started my Yahoo M38 group in 2002 for folks to get together and learn from others about M series Willys/Kaiser restoration. I partnered with Ryan Miller here in opening this web site in 2004 for the same reasons.

My goal is to provide a web site where all who want to learn about Willys/Kaiser M jeeps can come and learn, and I want it to be free.

In return I only ask that folks utilize all the great facets of this web site and share their info with others.

I assume is the Moses Ludel's CJ5 rebuild guide which is a great book but not specific enough to your M38A1.

I do have Moses Ludel's book. I also have one of the TM's so it looks like I need to download a few more!

Before you make any decisions on my advice let me introduce myself.
I have been wrenching professionally since 1965. I raced NHRA from 1963 thru about 1974. I got my first jeep in 1971, a 1942 GPW. I have owned another dozen jeeps since. I spent 2 in the Army as a UH-1 mechanic, 22 in the USAF as a heavy jet mechanic and have since spent another 24 years as a civilian licensed aircraft mechanic and inspector. I currently have a M37 driver with M101A1, A USAF blue M38 with M100 (Just finishing up), a 60 CJ5 snow plow jeep, a 1945 MB project and a 1970 CJ5 V6 project.

You have a very impressive wrenching career. I wreched for the Army on the UH-60 for about 7 years. I now work for the USAF as an Nondestructive Maintenance Technician. Not really wrenching anymore except on my A1, but NDI is still considered maintenance.

In return I only ask that folks utilize all the great facets of this web site and share their info with others.

I have already shared with others, mainly by word of mouth, but I jsut didn't feel comfortable enough with doing the rebuild on my own because I haven't dealt with vehicles all that much. It was mianly just simple bearings, hydraulic pumps, mainly just pop and swap parts on the 60. So I plan on taking plenty of pictures throughout the entire process so I can A: make sure I do it right B: get advice from others on what/how to do it if the manuals or references are interpretted incorrectly.

Now if I were to drain the transmission, then remove the shifting tower, would there be a way to just look inside to visual inspect everything without removal? It just seems that I may have to remove everything to inspect it. I just wanted to know if a visual was possible without removal.

You can remove the shifting tower without draining the tranny. Usually excessive wear patterns on the brass syncho gears are pretty obvious.

Good luck!

Tim

You can get a pretty good look at the main shaft of the transmission by simply removing the shift tower but there are certainly things you cannot see.....like the disposition of the shaft inside the lower cluster gear.....or the state of the brass thrust washers on each end of the cluster gear....or the state of the needle bearings inside the cluster gear.....the rollers that make up the bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft......the condition of the pawls inside the synchronizer.....or the brass sleeve inside the reverse idler gear. Things you can see are the condition of the brass rings that make up the synchronizer....the condition of the meshing edges of the main shaft gears.....and any major defects in the input gear and main shaft.....the condition of the oil slinger....sorta.....and the condition of the input and output bearings.....sorta.

When I started my "investigation" into the status of my T-90 I was planning to proceed along the same lines as you. That all changed after I drained the oil out of my transfer and transmission cases and found that I was running just about equal parts of water and oil. Needless to say the appalling amount of rust I found inside my transmission led to a total tear-down and rebuild. It was costly but hopefully not something I'll have to do again in my lifetime. The truly nice thing about these systems is their relative simplicity. If you take your time, follow the manuals and the willystech procedures I think you'll find the experience can be quite rewarding. IF you do decide to tear into the transmission be sure to note some of the little quirks of this little transmission....like if the transfer case is not bolted up to the transmission the rear output bearing will fall right out letting the main shaft slip to the rear allowing all the roller bearings that make up the bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft to fall out......and they will go directly under the cluster gear.

So I guess the answer is sorta yes and sorta no about the visual inspection......but at least it should give you a good idea as to whether or not further investigation is warranted. Good luck!

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/207.cfm
http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90Rebuild ... ebuild.htm

It is always a good idea when possible to road test/diagnose a transmission before draining oil & pulling apart.
There may be nothing wrong & generally, unless really abused, jumping 2nd is the only persistent issue.
If pulling apart you must remove the layshaft/countershaft by knocking front toward the rear so that the counter gear rests in the case bottom. Otherwise the input shaft & bearing can't be removed without damaging or breaking something.

When the jeep is assembled and running a road test is a very important part before entering into the restoration process. If done this way you can list items that are known to have problems so you can address them during the restoration.

In Army-Inc's case the jeep is in the midst of the restoration and the tranny laying , already, on his bench is in unknown condition. The smart move here is to tear it down now and make sure it's a serviceable unit and not to wait a few more months until the restoration is complete for a test drive and find out then that he will need to remove the tranny for work.