willysmjeeps.com

I just rebuilt the engine in my m38 again. It needed all new valves and valve guides. I also did new bearings all around. The engine seems loud to me and wanted to see what others think. I do have a strange whining sound as well but think that might be coming from my new alternator. It also has a small skip I am trying to track down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPtg2u4z ... e=youtu.be

Bill,
I hear three issues. The whine is probably alternator. The valve clatter is valve adjustment. I also hear a third noise that sounds like the lifter bores are very worn. Did you get oversized lifters or did you go with standard diameter lifters? How is the oil pressure?

I have stock lifters in the block. They seemed to have fit very well with not play when I installed them.

I think some of the extra noise in the vid is the wind from the fan. I will get the valves adjusted and see what happens.

Compared to my M38 it sounds a little quiet. But my vehicle has a blown muffler. lol! I was wondering if some of the noise, beyond what is mentioned, is the fuel pump?

I remember putting a rebuilt fuel pump on an M38A1 and noting how much noisier it seemed.

I think some of it is the fuel pump.

A stethoscope will remove the guess work.

Used a stethoscope already. Didnt really help much. However I did re-adjust the valves and it sounds great now. I will post a new vid when it is done uploading.

Seems this vid makes it sound louder than it is when standing next to it, but I think you can still tell it is much better. 2 cly. had valves two loose, all the others where to tight. Thanks to artificer for his help in describing a simple way to adjust the valves. It took me about 2 hours not working hard as it is hot outside and I don't have a garage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlnSTqbQrAU

purr n like a kitten!

Could you give a link or repost artificer's simple valve adjustment - thanks

Plugs out, side cover off & No 1 @ TDC COMPRESSION put a chalk mark on timing chain cover timing tab & the pulley then another chalk mark opposite side of the pulley 180* away.

Now adjust No1 valves.
With the crank handle turn engine till the next chalk mark is adjacent to the cover timing mark [180*] & adjust No 3 Valves. If no crank turn clockwise by hand that 180*
Now turn 180* till the original pulley chalk mark is on the timing gear cover mark & adjust No 4 valves.
Lastly turn another 180* & adjust No 2. You're all done.
Cover on plugs back in.

Since the TDC for # 1 was determined without the timing mark then accuracy is a bit of a guess since the each piston spends about 10 degrees crossing TDC where there is no measurable piston movement. If you have a correct and verified TDC and 5 BTDC pair of marks then you are in good shape. Otherwise to nail #1 TDC accurately you need the timing gear cover off(Check alignment of valve timing marks on the gears) or the head off (check total un-measurable piston travel with a dial indicator and split the diff). Without one of these steps you will only get close and then the following three cylinders using those chalk marks will only be close. Making a valve adjustment with the valve 10 degrees either side of being closed will not result in a good setting. If you get lucky with your TDC determination and you manage the feeler gauge correctly you'll get her right. If your not the lucky type then you'll have to pick the chalk mark several times.

The procedure as far as adjustment sequence, is as it has always been, the same as the fire order, 1-3-4-2.

Thanks for the info