52 M38 CDN Valve Seats Rusted

Discussion topics on Willys Overland M series vehicles

Moderators: TomM, Moderator, wesk

Post Reply
User avatar
boucher
Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:00 pm
Location: Ottawa, Canada

52 M38 CDN Valve Seats Rusted

Post by boucher »

I removed the valves last night and noticed the valve seats on #3 and #4 cylinders are badly rusted. I gave the top of the block a light buff with the die grinder (3M blue ) and took a a few pictures of the situation. The pictures are posted on page 2 of the photo galery in the "Boucher" album.
Have a look and let me know what you think .

Thanks

Pete
User avatar
Jeff_H
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:00 pm
Location: Winnipeg Canada
Contact:

Post by Jeff_H »

Are you going to get your engine re-built? If so I beleive any competent machine shop can get that back in shape. Any idea what caused the rust? Those gallerys should be dry. Was the engine stored outside with the carb off, or plug out of that cylinder?

best of luck

Jeff
User avatar
boucher
Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:00 pm
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Post by boucher »

I'm trying to avoid an engine shop, if possible. I think the intake valve #3 was open when it was parked and that's the reason for the rust.

I did another pass with the buffing pad last night and it's starting to look slightly better. I'll take another picture and post it soon
Bob_C
Site Administrator
Site Administrator
Posts: 271
Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2005 6:00 pm
Location: Chester County, PA

Post by Bob_C »

Youre really gonna need a machine shop to do that. A buffing pad isnt going to do much.

That valve has to seal in its seat. With all of that corrosion, I really dont think thats possible. That seat also has to be machined at the correct angle so the valve will properly seat in it.

I know youre trying to avoid a machine shop, but I really think thats your only option right now.
Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
User avatar
Jeff_H
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:00 pm
Location: Winnipeg Canada
Contact:

Post by Jeff_H »

I think that in the long run Bob is right, you need machine shop help. It is possible to hand grind in valves, but your seats appear pretty gone to get the right angle.

best of luck whatever you decide.

Jeff
User avatar
wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator
Posts: 16413
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
Location: Wisconsin
Contact:

Post by wesk »

I wouldn't work over the top of that block with a tiny scotch brite pad on a high speed. You'll end up with small localize dips and valleys of .001 to .003 that will give you a lot of grief later when the head gasket starts leaking here and there. What you're dabbling in is pro machine shop work with the correct equipment.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Post Reply